RUINS OF SAKHALIN 293 



bardment of the town. Opposite Blagovestchensk we 

 could see the smouldering ruins of the formerly 

 flourishing Chinese settlement of Sakhalin, at present 

 occupied by the Russians. It was a strange contrast 

 with what we had seen on our way to Kamchatka. 

 Destruction had passed over like a ghastly whirlwind, 

 and many a sad reflection crossed our minds at the 

 sight of those visible traces of desolation and death. 

 Next day we were slowly advancing along the Upper 

 Amur. Our launch was overcrowded with passengers, 

 amongst whom was a genuine admiral, who had just 

 left his post on the Russian Pacific Squadron, and was 

 returning to St. Petersburg. This new fellow-traveller, 

 who was accompanied by his aide-de-camp, was a pre- 

 possessing individual, but proved a most undesirable 

 companion during the week's journey to Stretensk, 

 Although there were several ladies on board besides 

 my wife, that high official occupied the best cabin, and 

 was constantly helped to the best food, which was 

 very scarce, the army commissariat having secured all 

 available supplies for the troops. Moreover, it was 

 found necessary, owing to low water, to shift us at 

 Pokrovskoie, at the mouth of the Shilka. on to a fiat- 

 bottomed passenger barge, which we awaited at that 

 place fully twenty-four hours. Fortunately, it was not 

 until we were within ninetv versts of Stretensk that 



