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QEORCJli W. YORK, Editor. 







40th YEAR, 



CHICAGO, ILL, MAY 10, 1900, 



No, 19. 



Cement Foundation Mold or Press. 



BY ADRIAN GBTAZ. 



REFERRING to my description of a cement foundation 

 press, on page 402 (1899), a correspondent asks the fol- 

 lowing questions : 



1. How strong should the frame be for the mold ? Is 

 one inch by one inch square all right ? 



2. What kind of wood should it be ? 



3. How is the cement paste made, with or without sand ? 



4. Will not the wood swell by keeping the mold wet 

 awhile, and then shrink away from the cement when 

 drj'ing ? 



5. How would you combine the mold and press so as to 

 be a perfect success ? 



I will answer the above questions in the same order as 

 they are askt. 



1. I don't think it is material, only the frame should be 

 made of such a size as to give the mold a sufficient thick- 

 ness. There is no strain at all on the frame, and'all that is 

 needed is to confine the cement while hardening, and fasten 

 the hinges. As to the thickness of the cement plates, mine 

 are 1^4 inches thick, and backt with a strong piece of plank 

 of about the same thickness. It depends what kind of press 

 is used. If the press has large platens, the mold would not 

 need to be more than one inch thick, and well leveled so as 

 to fit between the platens when prest. If the pressure is 

 applied between two cross-bars like mine, then the molds 

 should be either of sufficient thickness to prevent its break- 

 ing, or backt by a piece of plank. Mine was made to use 

 plaster-of-Paris, and is thicker than would be necessary 

 for cement. The press was already made, and is used 

 mostly for a different purpose. 



2. The kind of wood is immaterial. I used pine 1 '4x2 

 inches. 



3. The paste was made without sand. The sand might 

 make the surface coarser. 



4. No, not in my case. It was, however, Southern pine, 

 very resinous. You must recollect that wood swells and 

 shrinks only across the grain, and not in length ; and the 

 swelling and shrinking of a piece only one or two inches 

 thick does not amount to much. 



5. I don't know. The combination that I would try first 

 would be to fasten the " book " on a strong frame, and have 

 the frame holding the screw hinged to it, as shown in the 

 illustration herewith. Knox Co., Tenn. 



The Premiums offered this week are well worth work- 

 ing for. Look at them. 



NO. 7.— COMB HONEY PRODUCTION. 



Bait-Combs— Adjustment of Supers— Value of 

 Daily Weighing. 



BY R. C. AIKIN. 



THE management of supers during the honey-flow is a 

 matter requiring good judgment and skill. It will not 

 do to put on a lot of sections and then let the colony do 

 the rest^that is, if you will get best results. It requires^ a 

 close watch and a pretty nice estimate of what a colony will 

 do, to know when and how to adjust supers. 



I try to have bait-combs in the first super put on, and if 

 there is a little honey in those baits all the better. The 

 position of the baits in the super I vary according to supply 

 and demand. If I have plenty to supply each first super, I 

 usually put two in each corner, or a row thru on each side, 

 or a row in the center, or possibly one in each corner, and 

 two or more near the center. When in the corners or outer 

 rows, it tends to start and keep the outsides going so as to 

 be complete as soon as the center. A center row will not 

 finish the super nearly so even. Having but few baits so 

 that I have to economize to make them go around, I put in 

 one to four usually near the center. The center position, or 



Open. 



Mr. Getaz's Comb- Foundation Molds. 



Closed. 



at the front end, will draw out and start weak colonies 

 quicker than the other positions. • 



If you can have any unfinisht sections, be sure to use 

 them for baits. Even if some of them are half or two-thirds 

 full of honey use them ; the ones with honey are as good as 



