500 



AMERICAN BEE JOURNAL. 



Aug-. 9 1900 



at a uniform temperature, which should be just above the 

 melting-point. 



Now that the cups are no longer attacht to a bar, a 

 piece of tin has been fitted into the bottom of the tank, 

 having the ends perforated and turned up to a level with 

 the top of the tank, just under the rests or guages, allow- 

 ing pieces ot wax to be added as the liquid is used out, with- 

 out its interfering with the work. The wax is added over 

 the lamps, thus causing it to melt without raising the tem- 

 perature elsewhere, and serves the purpose of keeping the 

 depth of dip regulated without having continually to adjust 

 the guages, which can be raised or lowered according to 

 circumstances. 



The bevels at the ends of the forming-stick holder both 

 incline the same way, which admits of varying the depth 



again full depth, and set on the board, by shaking the drops 

 off, if the bases are large enough, before placing them on 

 the board, or, failing to shake them off, if the size of base 

 is to be increast. 



The main body of the cups should be made heavy 

 enough at first to prevent the contraction in cooling to 

 cause the water that can not be shaken from the sticks to 

 burst thru and make water-bubbles or knots on them ; and 

 then increase the weight of the bases, as that part has to 

 remain longer in the wax, altho the dipping is done quickly, 

 and therefore is inclined to melt off ; while the last dip 

 should be full depth to make the cups smooth outside, and 

 also to warm the whole up so they will slip off of the pegs 

 easily. 



When completed, touch the bases to cold water, but not 



A Whole Battery of Dipping-Sticla used iti Modern Queen-Rearing — and the Results. 

 (Both engravings in this article kindly loaned by the Bee-Keepers' Review.) 



of each alternate dip, by an endwise movement, and still 

 use the guages as a rest, so as to dip the pegs from end to 

 end alike. 



To make the cups with flat bottoms or goblet shape, 

 one must have a board on the table that has been thoroly 

 soakt in water, and keep it wet by occasionally dipping it, 

 or else touch the dipping-sticks to it every time thej' are 

 taken from the water. 



Make two dips the same depth in rapid succession, then 

 touch the bases of the cups to the melted wax, and imme- 

 diately set them on the wet board, to remain until the wax 

 "sets." Then dip them half way up, and set them on the 

 wet board as before. The next time dip three-fourths up, 

 and go back to the wet board. At this stage the base may 

 or may not be heavy enough, but the cups should be dipt 



deeper than the necks. This is done to harden the bases so 

 that they can be handled ; while the main body should re- 

 main warm to be easily removed. If allowed to contract too 

 much they fit the pegs too tightly for easy removal. 



If they are to be inserted in a bar as described in the 

 issue of June 28, simply shake the drops of was from them 

 instead of placing them on the wet board, which will leave 

 the bases pointed. 



The goblet-shaped or flat-bottom cups are either stuck 

 on the bar with melted wax, or else use a bar with two 

 headless small nails projecting 1/16 of an inch, driven }i 

 inch apart, where every cup is to stand, and simply press 

 the tups down on them. I arrange the nails in pairs, form- 

 ing two rows up and down the bar, and have the pairs 's 

 of an inch apart. "VVarren Co., N. C. 



