MEN OF THE TREES 



many old slaves refused to forsake their masters, the 

 temptation was too great for the majority who were 

 attracted by the high wages paid in the rapidly develop- 

 ing Port of Mombasa. This growing centre of com- 

 merce drained dry almost all the labour from along the 

 coast. 



The change came about so quickly that the Arabs 

 were incapable of adapting themselves to the new sys- 

 tem of labour whereby slaves were being replaced by 

 wage earners. Their fields and gardens became dereHct 

 and in many cases all that remained to them were a few 

 palms which sufficed for a bare existence. In the town 

 of Lamu on the East Coast, I have seen an old Arab liv- 

 ing in the corner of one room in the ruin of his ances- 

 tral home, protected from the glare of the sun or tropi- 

 cal downpour only by a makouti mat made of palm 

 leaves. 



Although on account of his inability to adapt him- 

 self, the coast Arab is unable to retain his old position 

 in the new order of affairs, his philosophical nature 

 seems to stand him in good stead and prevent him from 

 becoming embittered. He modestly retires from public 

 life and lives quietly, usually spending much time in de- 

 votions, for they are devout followers of the Prophet. 



On looking back on my days spent on the Coast, I 

 consider myself fortunate in having had the privilege 

 of knowing intimately some of these older Arabs. They 

 have much charm, and are always courteous and hos- 

 pitable, even though all they may have to give the trav- 



88 



