80 STATE POMOLOGICAL SOCIETY. 



stant use for generations must have be^n quite thoroughly experi- 

 mented upon and yet there is room for new combinations to be 

 invented. 



So many are the dishes in which the apple is a principal ingre- 

 dient that they must here be described in groups rather than in 

 detail. The cookery of the apple is dependent upon the funda- 

 mental laws of the art. Much depends upon our choice of apples, 

 the so-called '^cooking" apples cannot give the best results and are 

 no more to be chosen than inferior, stale eggs or rancid butter. We 

 have much to learn as to the varieties best suited to different 

 culinary purposes ; besides the flavor and degree of acidity of an 

 apple its general texture is also to be considered. In general, for 

 ordinary use it is best to select apples that are solid and heavy, not 

 mealy but juicy and full of sparkle, neither very large nor the 

 smallest in size. To attempt to use mean apples for cooking results 

 in a loss of time and temper, sugar and spice. 



The roasted or baked apple ranks highest in popular estimation. 



"The apples sputtered in a row, 

 And close at hand the basket stood 

 With uuts from brown October's wood." 



The modern fireplaces give an opportunity to revive the old fashion 

 of hanging the apples by a string before the open fire, but this is 

 oftener done for a luncheon than for table use. 



A baked apple is delicious if properly prepared whether sweet or 

 sour. Ic should be wiped, perhaps washed, the skin better not be 

 cut. Earthen or granite ware baking dishes should be used as tin 

 or iron injure the flavor of the fruit. The oven should be hot 

 enough to change the apple juices into steam and puflf out every 

 cell till it forms a frothy, pulpy mass. If there is danger of the 

 escaping juices burning on the baking dish, a little water should be 

 added. The advantage of retaining the skin is that it holds the 

 steam and thus really hastens the process. Sometimes, however, 

 the skins are imperfect and we prefer to remove them and also the 

 cores and to fill the centre with spiced sugar or bas'^e them with 

 butter and sugar which glazes the outside. Then very juicy, apples 

 thus prepared may be placed on round pieces of bread which absorb 

 the syrup and are to bo served with the fruit. 



Baked apples may be canned in a thin syrup and reheated when 

 the jar is opened. The pulp of snowy baked apples beaten with 

 whites of eggs may appear as apple snow or floating island com- 



