148 SUCCESS WITH SMALL FRUITS. 



spring, in case we have orders from the far South. This 

 heavy covering should be hghtened sufficiently early in the 

 spring to prevent smothering. Plants well protected have 

 a fine green appearance early in spring, and, even if no 

 better, will give much better satisfaction than those whose 

 leaves are sere and black from frost. 



As the weather begins to grow warm in March, push aside 

 the covering a little from the crown of the plants, so as to 

 let in air. If early fruit is desired, the mulch can be raked 

 aside and the ground worked between the rows, as soon as 

 danger of severe frost is over. If late fruit is wanted, let in 

 air to the crown of the plants, but leave the mulch on the 

 ground, which is thus shielded from the sun, warm showers, 

 and the south wind, for two or three weeks. 



I have now reached a point at which I differ from most 

 horticultural writers. As a rule, it is advised that there be 

 no spring cultivation of bearing plants. It has been said 

 that merely pushing the winter mulch aside sufficiently to 

 let the new growth come through is all that is needed. I 

 admit that the results are often satisfactory under this 

 method, especially if there has been deep, thorough culture 

 in the fall, and if the mulch between and around the plants 

 is very abundant. At the same time, I have so often seen 

 unsatisfactory results that I take a decided stand in favor of 

 spring cultivation if done properly and sufficiently early. 

 I think my reasons will commend themselves to practical 

 men. Even where the soil has been left mellow by fall 

 cultivation, the beating rains and the weight of melting 

 snows pack the earth. All loamy land settles and tends to 

 grow hard after the frost leaves it. While the mulch checks 

 this tendency, it cannot wholly prevent it. As a matter of 

 fact, the spaces between the rows are seldom thoroughly 

 loosened late in the fall. The mulch too often is scattered 



