FORCING STRAWBERRIES UNDER GLASS. iS^ 



cated part of the flower, and that which requires the longest 

 time for perfect formation, become "a mere tuft of abor- 

 tions, incapable of quickening, and shrivelling into pitch- 

 black threads as soon as fully in contact with the air." 

 Let the conditions within- doors accord as far as possible 

 with those under the open sky. The roots require coolness, 

 continuous and evenly maintained moisture. One check 

 from over-dryness may cause serious and lasting injury. 

 The foliage needs air and light in abundance. Therefore 

 the pots should be on shelves close to the glass ; otherwise 

 the leaf and fruit stalks will be drawn and spindling. If the 

 pot can be shaded while the plant is in full light, all the bet- 

 ter. When first introduced, the temperature should not ex- 

 ceed 45° or 50°. Air must be freely admitted at all times 

 though much less will suffice, of course, in cold than in warm 

 weather. Watch the foliage, and if it begins to grow long 

 and without substance, give more air and less heat. An 

 average of 55° to 70° by day may be allowed, and from 45° 

 to 50° by night. 



When the flower buds begin to open, the forcing must be 

 conducted more slowly and evenly, so as to give the delicate 

 organs time to perfect ; but after the fruit is set, the heat 

 can be increased till it occasionafly reaches 75° at midday. 

 After the fruit begins to color, give less water, — barely suf- 

 ficient to prevent any check in growth, and the fruit will 

 be sweeter and ripen faster. The upper blossoms may be 

 pinched off", so as to throw the whole strength of the plant 

 into the lower berries. Keep off" all runners ; syringe the 

 plants if infested with the red spider, and if the aphis ap- 

 pears, fumigate him with tobacco. 



The plants that have fruited need not be thrown away as 

 useless. If they are turned out of the pots into rich, moist 



