RUB us OCCIDENTALIS. 23 I 



tips with a trowel. The tips do not all mature for propaga- 

 tion at one time ; therefore, it is well to go over the plan- 

 tation every two weeks after the middle of August, and 

 cover lightly with earth only such as are enlarged. If cov- 

 ered before this sign of readiness appears, the tip merely 

 decays. If a variety is very scarce, we may cover not only 

 the tips, but also much of thts cane, lightly — an inch or two 

 — with earth, and each bud v;ill eventually make a plant. 

 This should not be done, however, until the wood is well 

 ripened, say about the first of October. Throw a few leaves 

 over such layered canes in November, and divide the buds 

 and roots into separate plants early in spring. They will 

 probably be so small as to need a year in the nursery row. 

 Sometimes, after the first tip is rooted, buds a little above 

 it will push into shoots which also will root themselves with 

 slight assistance, and thus the number of new plants is 

 greatly increased. Spring is by far the best time, at the 

 North, for planting these rooted tips ; but it should be done 

 as early as possible, before the bud has started into its brit- 

 tle, succulent growth. At the South, November is probably 

 the best season for planting. It is a species that adapts 

 itself to most soils, even the lightest, and endures much 

 neglect. At the same time, it responds generously to good 

 culture and rigorous pruning, and if moisture is abundant 

 the yield is simply enormous. It not only thrives far to the 

 north, but can also be grown farther south than any other 

 class of raspberries. 



In planting, spread out the roots and let them go down 

 their full length, but do not put over an inch or two of soil 

 on the bud from which the new canes are to spring. Press 

 the earth firmly around this bud, but not on it. Let the 

 rows be six feet apart, and the plants three feet from each 

 other in the row; at this distance, 2,400 will be required 



