36 



POPULAR GARDENING. 



November, 



plants that have borne fruit. Be sure to have 

 young and thrifty plants of the last season's 

 growth, and do not set any others even if they 

 are given to you.. Leave the covering on in the 

 spring, until all danger of hard freezing is past, 

 and the young leaves are beginning to start. 

 Then the fruit will not be damaged by late frosts. 

 It will be two or three days late in ripening, but 

 the crop is almost a certainty. After taking off 

 the covering 1 put on a dressing of fine manure, 

 or what I like better, wood ashes, at the rate of 

 half a bushel to the square rod, keep down the 

 weeds, and in June or July, pick a fine crop of 

 this queen of all the small fruits. 



Raspherries. Give them the same kind of soil 

 as the Strawberries, and the same kind of prepa- 

 ration. For varieties, I like the Marlboro for the 

 first early red, and the Cuthbert for the late red; 

 the first named is with me a large and beautiful 

 berry, and begins to ripen before the Straw- 

 berries are gone. The Cuthbert is a large late 

 berry, excellent in quality and very productive. 

 Among the blackcaps the Souhegan is nearly as 

 early as the Marlboro, a good bearer, and of 

 good quality; the Gregg is a large late berry, 

 and with me a great bearer of fine fruit. If you 

 wish a few yellow ones take the Golden Queen. 



The above named will give a good supply of 

 choice fruit from the beginning to the end of 

 the Raspberry season. In setting, the ground 

 should be furrowed, making the rows not less 

 than seven feet apart; then set the plants two 

 feet apart in the rows, press the earth firmly 

 around the roots, and water, if the weather is 

 dry. I always grow some other crop between 

 the rows the first season. 



Winter Protection, in the fall, and before the 

 ground freezes, they should be laid down and 

 covered with earth. In covering, one man takes 

 a hoe or a common four-tined Potato fork, and 

 digs out some of the earth upon the side of the 

 plant; then another follows and bends the plant 

 over towards that side until it lies nearly flat 

 upon the ground ; another follows and throws 

 a shovelful of earth upon the tips of the plants 

 to hold them in place, after which they are 

 covered about one inch in depth. When danger 

 from freezing is over in the spring, they are un 

 covered and raised up as near their natural posi- 

 tion as convenient and the earth is again replaced 

 where it was taken from in the fall. Then put 

 on a dressing of manure or ashes and cultivate 

 well and thoroughly. All weeds and grass that 

 grow in the rows must, of course, be destroyed 

 with the hoe. You will not get as full a crop the 

 second season, as you will of Strawberries, but 

 you will get some nice fruit As soon as you 

 are done picking the fruit, go through and cut 

 out all the old canes, also the weak ones of the 

 new growth, leaving only a sufficient number to 

 have a good crop of fruit the following season. 

 After this is done we go through with a pair of 

 large shears and cut off the tops, leaving the 

 canes about four feet high. 



The red varieties propagate by suckers, sur- 

 plus of which must of course be destroyed the 

 same as any other weeds. The blackcaps prop- 

 agate from the tips of their branches. Should 

 you need new sets, go among them in August 

 and bend over some of the branches of the 

 strong thrifty canes, and throw sufficient earth 

 upon the tips to hold them in place, when they 

 will take root, and the following spring will 

 furnish you with nice plants for setting new beds. 



Blackberries, Their cultivation is similar to 

 that of the Kaspberry. They need the same 

 winter protection, and given in the same way, 

 and if well cared for will last longer than the 

 Itaspberries. During the last five or six years, 

 a great deal has been said and printed of the 

 Dewberr.v, or in other words, the running Black- 

 berry. I have been spending some time and 

 money upon them for a number of years past, 

 and it I had received one dollar per quart for all 

 the berries that we ha\e picked from them, I 

 should still be some money out of pocket. 



Grapes. The cultivation of Grapes is easy. 

 We set the vines eight feet apart each way. 

 They arc trained upon a trellis, posts being set 

 about l~ feet apart, and smooth wires stretched 

 upon them. 



We trim them in the fall, cutting the branches 

 of the main canes back to two or three buds 

 each. We then la.v them down and then cover 

 them with earth one to two inches deep, and 

 leave them until we think danger from frost is 

 past. The Concord has long been the Grape for 

 the masses, and is still more generally cultivated 

 than any other variety. Sometimes the season 

 in the northern portion of our state is too short 



for it to do its best. With me the Moore's Early, 

 Worden, and the Massasoit are all from one 

 week to ten days earlier than the Concord, and 

 the two last named are, in my opinion, much 

 better in quality. I would not advise any one in 

 this state to plant any Grape that is later than 

 the Concord in ripening. 



Ctirrants, These are northern fruit, which abso- 

 lutely refuses to do its best in a southern climate. 

 There is no fruit grown with us, that will bear 

 as much neglect or that will respond more 

 quickly to first-rate care and cultivation. It is 

 the only one of our garden fruits that will en- 

 dure our most severe winters, and come out in 

 the spring without a damaged bud. We set the 

 bushes six feet apart each way, manure heavily, 

 cultivate thoroughly and always secure a heavy 

 crop. For table use, it is doubtful if there are any 

 better varieties than the old red and white 

 Dutch. For other purposes, my wife thinks she 

 has never used any that were equal to the 

 Prince Albert and the Long Bunch Holland. 

 They are much larger than the last named, and 

 with me yield a much larger crop. We let from 

 four to eight canes grow in a stool, and after 

 the.y have borne a few years we cut them out 

 and allow the strong young canes to take their 

 place. In this manner they may be kept in full 

 bearing for many years. 



To destroy the Currant Worm. We use White 

 Helebore, putting about half a tablespoonful 

 into a ten-quart pail of water, and then sprinkle 

 on a sufficient quantity to fairly wet the leaves. 

 Its use will not injure the fruit in any manner 

 or those who use it. 



Easter Trade and How to Prepare 



For It. 



{Extract from paper by Jaines Dean^read at the Bos- 

 ton convention of the Society of American Florists.) 



Twenty years ago we had no Easter trade 

 worth speaking of, but the Easter of to-day 

 might well be called a festival of flowers. 

 At that time we grew a few small plants of 

 Azaleas, Lilium Longiflorums, Roses, 

 mostly Plan tiers, Spiraea, Deutziaand some 

 Hyacinths. For a few years the increase in 

 Easter plants was very slight. From 1S78 

 until 1888 the demand for flowers and plants 

 increased rapidly, some years exceeding the 

 supply. 



For the past two years I have not noticed any 

 increase in the Easter trade of New York City. 

 It may be because there are more plants and 

 flowers grown. None of the New York City 

 florists had any difficulty in supplying themselves 

 at reasonable prices with all the plants and 

 flowers that their business required. Outside of 

 New York and Philadelphia, the increase of 

 Easter trade will probably continue for some 

 years to come, especially in the smaller cities. 



There are a few questions which every florist 

 interested in the growing of plants and flowers 

 for Easter should answer for himself. 



1st. Is there a paying market in your vicinity 

 for Easter plants in excess of last Easter? 



2d. To what extent would the market warrant 

 the increase in the output of plants and flowers? 



3d. What varieties can be grown and sold at a 

 profit? 



4th. The shipping of Easter plants to a dis- 

 tance when in full flower is expensive and risky, 

 and the grower will have to depend largely on a 

 home market. 



The Easter Lily I place at the head of Easter 

 plants, and under that head I include both Longi- 

 florum and Harrisii. Fully three-quarters of all 

 the forced Lilies are Harrisii. It flowers more 

 freely than the Longiflorum, and the flowers are 

 not liable to become blind. It can be forced at a 

 higher temperature than the Longiflorum. If 

 the plants are removed to a temperature of 50 

 degrees at night, and given air during the day 

 two weeks before the flowers open, they will be 

 just as Arm as the Longiflorum, and nearly 

 double the number of flowers can be cut. 



Most of the Lily bulbs come from Bermuda, 

 during July and August. At that time they are 

 potted in a light sandy loam, one-third of which 

 is well-rotted manure, using live and one-half 

 and six inch pots for the five to seven inch bulbs; 

 a si.v and one-half and seven inch pot for the 

 seven to nine inch bulbs, and a seven and eight 

 inch pot for the nine to twelve inch bulbs. Pot 

 the bulb one-inch deep. Then set them close 

 together in a frame, give a good watering and 

 cover with hay or straw to prevent the soil from 

 drying out rapidly. They can remain out until 



frost, although a degree or two of frost will not 

 injure the plants. Until New Yearsanight tem- 

 perature of 40 degrees to .50 degrees, with plenty 

 of air during the day, is all they require. After 

 New Years they may be removed or the night 

 temperature increased to fiO degrees or 65 degrees, 

 and even 70 degrees if there is little sunshine. 

 Try to have the flower buds well above the 

 foliage six weeks before Easter. 



Bear in mind that it is better to hold the flowers 

 back by shading and giving plenty of air, which 

 hardens and stiffens them, and enables them to 

 bear transportation better than to hurry them 

 into flower by steaming the pipes and watering 

 them with warm water. Lender such treatment 

 they are fit for the rubbish heap only. Before 

 delivery cover each flower and bud separately 

 with fine tissue paper, cut into squares of ten 

 inches. Although it takes a great deal of time, 

 wefinditfpays to wrap plants, for we have no 

 flowers damaged in transportation. 



Azalea Forcing. The Azalea is second on the 

 list of Easter plants. It is a decided favorite 

 for decoration. The Azaleas we force come 

 from Ghent in Belgium during October. They 

 do not always arrive in such a condition that 

 they can be used the same season, often dropping 

 their foliage and flower buds, then they have to 

 be grown another year. The successful Easter 

 grower never depends upon his last importation 

 of Azaleas for his next Easter ti-ade; but carries 

 one year's stock of plants ahead. The-Azalea 

 during the winter, until eight weeks before 

 Easter, can be kept at night at 40 degrees with 

 plenty of air during the day. If Easter comes 

 in March 55 degrees will answer at night; if 

 Easter comes in April .50 degrees will be enough. 

 Set some of the late varieties such as Souv. De 

 Prince Albert, Louisa Pynaert, Leonie Van 

 Houtte and Souv. De Prince Albert alba, into 

 heat two weeks earlier. Do not stand Azaleas 

 under a shade tree during the summer and 

 expect them to flower the following winter. 

 Give them open sunshine. Plunge or plant them 

 in a frame where you have grown Pansies. The 

 Azalea delights in a loose, light soil. Mulch, but 

 do not use manure, as it would injure, if not kill 

 the plants. Syringe to keep down red spider. 

 Treated thus they will make a good growth and 

 mature their flower buds when wanted. Be care- 

 ful that the Azaleas are housed before frost, as 

 that would injure the flower buds. 



The Hydrangea is a close second on the list. 

 Thomas Hogg is an old favorite with us, with its 

 many clusters of pure white flowers. Hydrangea 

 rosea, beautiful rose color, with the f reeness of 

 its flowers will always be a market variety. By 

 mixing iron filings with the soil during the sum- 

 mer, and watering with alum water when potted, 

 you can change the color of the flowers of 

 Otaksa to a blue. The Hydrangea is easily grown 

 from cuttings. One struck in March, planted 

 out before the firstof May in rich soil and mulched 

 and watered regularly, will by October make a 

 plant fit to go into a seven or eight inch pot. Do 

 not pinch or top the Hydrangeas after the middle 

 of June that are wanted for Easter forcing. 

 Secure the Hydrangea against frost, as it is liable 

 to injure the flower bud. I lift mine by the 10th 

 of October, pot them in good rich soil and place 

 them until New Y'^ears in a cold frame, giving 

 air during the day and protecting them at night 

 from frost. They are brought into the green- 

 house at New Years and given a temperature of 

 BO degrees at night with air during the day, then 

 increase the temperature to 65 degrees at night 

 with little air during the day, until the flowers 

 begin to color. Then gradually give them more 

 air during the day and reduce the temperature 

 at night, this will give a bright color to your 

 flowers and hardy plants The Hj'drangea and 

 Plantier Rose if grown in a warm tempei'ature 

 and exposed without being hardened will wilt. 

 The Hydrangea when in growth requires plenty 

 of watering and an occasional watering of liquid 

 manure. 



The Genista or Cytisas comes next to the 

 Hydrangea as an Easter plant. Two varieties 

 are grown. Genista Canariensis is best grown 

 in its natural state and suited for large plant 

 decorations. Genista racemosus is better adapted 

 tor small plants and stands trimming well. The 

 flowers are a little larger and a deeper yellow 

 than Canariensis. Cuttings grow freely in a light 

 soil to which has been added some well-rotted 

 manure. Shifted as they require they soon 

 make salable plants, but be careful not to over- 

 pot. Do not plant the Genista in the open 

 ground during the summer as they lift poorly, 

 often losing their foliage. Plunge and mulch 



