1890. 



POPULAR GARDENING. 



39 



Roses and similar shrubs to be protected by laying 

 down or otherwise. Mulch the roots. 



Supports, such as plant stakes, etc., should be care- 

 fully gathered and stored under shelter for next year. 



Tree Guards. Trees in streets and on the lawn are 

 subject to injury by animals, and as they have con- 

 siderable value, should be protected by some sort of 

 guard. Wire screen may be used for this purpose. 

 Another simple way is to set three small stakes around 

 each tree, and wind barbed wire around them. 



PLANT CULTURE UNDER GLASS. 



Achimenes. A temperature of Su*' and a dry place 

 will now suit them. 



Amaryllis. Keep quite dry, especially the deciduous 

 kinds. The evergreen sorts need only water enough 

 to keep leaves from drying. 



Azaleas. Keep the old plants nowat rest, moder- 

 ately dry and cool. Young plants for early blooming 

 need strong heat. 



Cinerarias. Give a light place, and air frequently 

 when practicable. Temperature not to go above 45"^. 

 For blooming in January, give to the plants grown 

 from seed In June, the final shift. 



Cyclamens, in bloom, may be given occasional doses 

 of liquid manure. Keep near glass in a temperature 

 of about 50*^. Pot off the seedlings. 



Dahlia. Tubers of this and similar ones, now cured, 

 to be stored under the benches or in other dry place. 



Deutzias. Pot the plants to be forced for early 

 spring bloom. Good flowers may be had about two 

 months after bringing into heat. 



G-eneral Management. Dead leaves, old flower 

 sttdks and diseased or superfluous branches to be re- 

 moved whenever found. Guard against over-watering. 

 Should water stand in the pots for any length of time 

 after watering, look to the drainage. The best thing 

 to be done in such case is to shift into new pots and 

 soil. As there is now but little light, the glass should 

 be kept clean and free from whitewash, or anything 

 else that obstructs the light. To keep off green fly, 

 moist Tobacco stems may be placed upon the soil 

 among the plants. The standard remedy is burning 

 one half pound of Tobacco stems to each 5()0 feet of 

 glass weekly, but steaming Tobacco stems, or keeping 

 Tobacco tea in little troughs on the heating pipes, as 

 described In former Issues, are ju.st as effective, and 

 very simple methods. 



Greraniums to be kept near the glass andrather dry. 



Heliotrope. When in bloom, give frequent doses of 

 liquid manure. 



Hyacinths. The early started ones to be brought to 

 the light and heat just as soon as the pots are filled 

 with roots. Water liberally. 



Lily of the Valley, for early flowers to be brought 

 Into the heat towards end of month. 



Lady Washington (Pelargonium). Those that were 

 cut down to be repotted when growth has well started. 

 Reduce the ball of earth to fit it for same-sized or even 

 smaller-sized pots. 



Poinsettia, also Euphorbia, to be kept near glass 

 and in brisk heat. Encourage growth. 



Sweet- Pea, Mignonette, Candytuft, and perhaps 

 other hardy annuals may be sown outside for early 

 spring bloom. 



Tuberoses. See directions for Dahlia. 



Verbenas. Keep plants from cuttings cool and near 

 the glass, with plenty of air in all suitable weather. 

 Keep off green fly by fumigation with Tobacco stems, 

 or similar means. 



FRUIT GARDEN AND ORCHARD. 



Blackberries. If to be set in the fall this should be 

 done as soon now as possible. .Set as deep into the 

 ground as the plants grow naturally. Plants grown 

 from root cuttings are best. Lay down the tenderer 

 sorts for winter protection, trimming the canes as 

 needed. 



Fences around orchards to be repaired where 

 needed. Keep all stock except poultry out of young 

 orchards. 



Fruit. Carefully save and utilize every bit of fruit 

 you may have. The markets have been crowded with 

 Grapes, because they all seem to ripen late, and many 

 not at all, and the poor stock, and large quantities 

 thrown on the market all at a time, have demoralized 

 the market. Work the local markets niore,aud relieve 

 the city markets. After a while fruit will be scarce. 



G-rapes. Pruning is now in order. The wood may 

 be used for making cuttings. We prefer two-eye 

 cuttings if long-jointed. These are tied in bundles of 

 50 each, and buried In sand In the cellar, or in any 

 well-drained spot out-doors. 



Labels. Examine the labels on young trees. Re- 

 place where lost or illegible. The labels usually found 

 attached to trees coming from the nursery are too 

 frail, to be trusted very long. Use pointed wood labels 

 written on with pencil, and fastened to a strong limb 

 with copper wire, using a large loop so not to choke 

 the limb. Zinc labels, with a long tapering end to be 

 wound around the limb, are also good and serviceable, 



Mulching Material. Nothing is better than marsh 

 hay for mulching Strawberries. This can be had 

 cheaply and easily In many places. Leaves, Pine 

 boughs, coarse strawy manure will do ; but whatever 

 we use should be free from weed seeds. 



Orchard trees might now be given a thorough 

 cleaning of their trunks and branches. Wash them 

 with strong soapsuds or weak lie. A good mixture 

 for this purpose is as follows: To one peck of lime, 

 while hot, add one-half gallon crude carbolic acid, 

 one gallon soft soap, and four pounds of sulphur ; 

 stir well. A thorough application of such compound 

 win free the trees from many insects and their eggs, 

 and be a lasting benefit. Prof. Cook recommends one 

 quart of soft soap In a gallon of boiling water, a pint 

 of kerosene, thoroughly stirred In. 



Planting- Apples and Pear trees may yet be planted, 

 especially In more southern latitudes, where this Is the 

 very best season for the work. It may be well, how- 

 ever, to order at once all trees wanted for this fall's 

 or next spring's planting, heeling in to have them on 

 hand when wanted In spring. Usually you have choice 

 of stock at this time, while late in spring you may 

 have to take what is left. Put a mound about the 

 stems of all newly-planted trees to steady them, and 

 keep off mice, etc. Tins, wire screens or tarred paper 

 wound around the lower part of trees is a cheap and 

 easy protection against mice, and rabbits. 



Raspberries. The red sorts may yet be planted this 

 fall. For blackcaps we would prefer to wait until 

 spring. Lay down the tenderer sorts, by bending 

 down In line of the row, and covering with soil. 



Stocks for root-grafting during the winter should 

 now be dug and stored in the cellar. 



Strawberries. When the beds have frozen, the 

 mult h may be applied, especially between the rows, 

 and lightly over the plants. 



Tree Seed. Pits and Nuts for growing tree seedlings 

 should be mixed with soil or sand, and left exposed to 

 freezing. 



VEGETABLE GARDEN. 



Asparagus. Give the beds a good coat of compost. 



Beets and Mangels to be stored in pits. For use 

 during winter, part maybe stored In cellar, but they 

 should then be kept covered with sand, soil or turf to 

 keep from wilting. 



Cabbage to be gathered and stored for winter and 

 spring. A few heads for early winter use may be 

 simply put under a shed, or in the comer of barn. 

 Heads If wrapped In several thicknesses of paper, and 

 hung up by the roots In a cool cellar will keep well for 

 some time. For spring use Cabbages may be pitted 

 almost like roots or Potatoes. Or they may be stood 

 in rows close together, roots up, and outside leaves 

 well wrapped around their heads, and thus covered 

 with soil in ridge form. 



Carrots to be treated like Beets and Mangels. 



Celery, where not yet taken care of, should be 

 gathered and stored immediately in localities where 

 heavy frosts may now be expected. The home grower 

 is apt to neglect this until too late. Much good Celery 

 Is left to spoil in this very way. The plants, with 

 roots and but little soil on, may be packed closely Into 

 a narrow trench, and this covered to be safe from rain 

 and frost. Or the plants may be stood upon soil In 

 cellar bottom, or In a box. Keep the roots wet, and 

 tops dry, and they will keep and bleach well. 



Chicory. Dig plants and store for growing greens 

 in cellar during winter. 



Onion. Sell the crop If possible now. The outlook 

 Is for high prices in spring, and many wish to store. 

 Keep them dry, cool, and well-aired, and also from ex- 

 posure to very low temperatures, or to repeated freez- 

 ing and thawing. 



Parsnips. Dig and store in cellar what you may 

 wish to use during winter. 



Potatoes will be very scarce and high priced. Make 

 sure of good seed for next spring's planting. Store in 

 a cool, dark place where frost will not reach them. 



Rhubarb. As soon as frost has killed the leaves, 

 rake them off. then plow a furrow aw^ay from each 

 side of the row, with small plow, and fill the furrows 

 with manure. Afterwards plow the furrows back. 

 Roots that need dividing maybe divided and replanted 

 in the fall as well as at any time, and any wanted for 

 forcing in the cellar or the green house should be dug 

 up before the ground freezes, and put under cover of 

 some leaves or litter till wanted for forcing. 



Spinach. Cover the beds lightly with leaves or 

 coarse litter before winter sets In. 



Squash to be kept in a dry cool place, out of reach 

 of frost. 



Turnips to be kept as advised for other root crops. 



FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER 

 CLASS. 



Asparagus, If plants are wanted for forcing under 

 the greenhouse benches. In pits or hotbeds in early 

 spring, good plants should now be taken up and stored 

 so to be easily accessible in February. 



Lettuce in forcing pits to be aired freely. If weather 

 continues mild, remove sash entirely until colder. 

 Guard against mildew and green fly. 



Mushrooms. Beds may now be made under the 

 greenhouse benches, or In warm sheds. .Mix turfy 

 loam with clear horse dung, to secure moderate and 

 lasting heat. Beat flrmly, make beds as large as 

 possible. Avoid extremes of wet and dryness. 



G-rapes. All early houses should now be cleared of 

 leaves,and the vines be pruned at once. Let the youuR 

 and old wood be well washed with soft soap and warm 

 water, keeping a good look out for scale during the 



operation. Each scale now destroyed will cause the 

 eggs which are encased In It to be destroyed also. Let 

 all walls receive a coat of hot lime, and the woodwork 

 cleaned down. Clear off all old manure from the 

 borders, also two Inches of the surface soil If possible, 

 and return two inches of good fresh loam ; over this 

 place a mulch of fresh manure four or five Inches 

 thick, re-tle the trees to their trellises and the house 

 will be ready for starting when wanted. 



Rhubarb, store plants as directed for Asparagus. 



Strawberries. Plunge the pots to their brims in 

 earth or coal ashes in cold frames. Water sparingly 

 A month later they may be brought in to be forced. 



Vineries. Vines In early house should be pruned 1 1 

 once, and the whole house be given a good cleaning 

 with hot water and soft soap, to clear it from eggs of 

 thrips and red spider, also of germs of mildew and 

 other fungi. 



THE POULTRY YARD 



Profitable Dacks. If any breed is profitable, it 

 is the Pebin. People who raise them for early 

 market on an extensive scale use no other breed. 

 They develop early, and are most popular in 

 market. As an egg' layer no duck is superior to 

 the Pekin. Altogether this breed is profitable. 



Bogs and Fowls, l^et the chicks become ac- 

 customed to the watch dosr. Two of our dogs 

 sleep among the chicks in the same house, and 

 all concerned are perfectly happy. A bird dog 

 is more apt to catch chickens than a good Collie, 

 Newfoundland, St. Bex-nhard or Mastitf. Rut 

 even a bird dog can be taught to let them alone. 



Small Potatoes cooked, and Onions sliced in, as 

 recommended by friend Boyer, may do very well 

 in place of a part of grain ration, but we think it 

 will be cheaper to depend on Western Wheat, 

 Corn, and perhaps Buckwheat. Even the small 

 Onions will bring a good price this year, and as 

 for Potatoes, many people would be glad to have 

 even small ones to eat. 



Early Eggs. The early pullets should now 

 commence to lay. Give stimulating food, es- 

 pecially meat and broken bones several times a 

 week, also broken oyster-shell if obtainable. By 

 changing feed, giving Wheat in the morning, 

 Oats at noon, and a little Corn at night, the 

 poultry keeper will seldom fail to get a liberal 

 supply of eggs. Our Langshans, thus treated, 

 frequently lay through the moulting season. 



Langshans in the Harket> New York com- 

 mission men now accept the Langshan as both a 

 broiler and market fowl. Notwithstanding that 

 it dresses a white skin, those that have ever had 

 the pleasure of testing it« table qualities, piefer 

 the meat to all others. Now that the breed is 

 gaining favor in markets it will have another 

 good substantial boom. It is also one of the 

 best winter layers, if not the best which makes 

 it a valuable farmer's bird. Crossed upon most 

 any other breed it adds untold value.— German- 

 town Telegraph. 



Packing Eggs for Winter. Take a keg or 

 small wooden box, and cover the bottom about 

 an inch deep with salt. Place the eggs on this, 

 small end down, and add more salt until the 

 spaces between the eggs are all filled, and the 

 eggs are well covered. Proceed thus until the 

 keg is filled, keeping it in a cool dry place. The 

 eggs must be fresh and clean^ and if you have 

 been careful to pack them well, using only fresh 

 ones they will not disay^point you. Use common 

 barrel salt, and after the eggs are used, the salt 

 is good enough for stock.— Orange Judd Farmer. 



The Poultry House. Now the windows should 

 be put in and everything made tight and snug. 

 Our hardier breeds, the Langshans, Brahmas, 

 Cochins, Plymouth Kocks, etc., can stand con- 

 siderable cold weather, even if roosting in trees 

 outdoors, but they can not stand a damp house, 

 nor a draughty roosting place. Good ventilation 

 is essential, but there should be no direct draught 

 over the perches. A knot hole through which 

 the piercing winter winds can blow directly 

 upon the roosting fowls, may do them a great 

 deal of injury, and bring on roup and other 

 diseases. Make a very thorough examination of 

 the house, and stop up all holes and cracks. Ten 

 cents worth of kerosene, mow squirted over the 

 perches, nests and sides of the bouse will insure 

 the fowls' safety from lice and mites almost 

 during the entire winter. This precaution is one 

 not to be neglected. 



Requisites for Winter. We have found it a 

 good practice to give the poultry house a good 

 cleaning-out before winter, and then put a load 

 or two of muck, sand or fine gravel, road dust or 

 woods' earth upon the floor and under the 

 perches. This not only keeps the floor sweet and 

 clean, but also furnishes good material for the 

 bens to scratch in during winter. A tew basket- 

 fuls, or even a wagon load, of dry forest leaves 

 scattered over the floor upon the muck, etc., is 

 also serviceable to maintain cleanliness, as an 

 addition to the manure and for other purposes. 

 Fowls, to do well need exercise like other 

 beings. The grain may be scattered among the 

 dry leaves, especially early in the morning, and 

 the fowls will be kept busy scratching for a long 

 time. We also like to give Oats in the bundle, 

 for the very purpose of giving our fowls some- 

 thing to do ; and part of the Corn is given on the 

 cob with the same end in view. Among other 

 important requisites is one or more fountains 

 that can be kept supplied with clean water, and 

 this as little subject to freezing as possible. 



