I89I. 



POPULAR GARDENING. 



79 



be at once freed from their weight, which might break 

 them down, and the snow removed from close neigh- 

 borhood of the plants. 



General Management. Perennials In the borders 

 and on the lawn like a coat of coarse manure spread 

 around them, to serve as a protection against excessive 

 cold and for food. They will pay for such favor in 

 finer flowers next year. On the whole we will And 

 little actual work to do out doors at this season for 

 the lawn and border; but we should do all the more 

 for them In the house, by studying up plans for next 

 season's Improvement. We must soon make up our 

 mind what we are golnR to do the coming spring, for 

 much of our success depends on early preparation. 

 Some stock will be needed as usual, and the sooner we 

 look up the sources of supply and send in our orders, the 

 better as a rule, we will be served, and the earlier we 

 may expect to have our stock on hand. Orders to plant- 

 dealers should always be given a month or two ahead 

 of the planting season. 



Hedees of deciduous kinds may now be trimmed. 



Hollyhocks, Sweet Williams, Delphiniums, etc., may 

 be started by sowing seed In the window or greenhouse. 

 If such seedlings are fairly treated between now and 

 planting time, they will boom In early autimin. 



Pansies. Seed to be sown at once, If fall-sown plants 

 are not at hand. 



Roses of the hardy out-door class are better off and 

 safer, If well covered by a coat of soil or coal ashes. 



Requisites. Trellises, labels, arbors and rustic work, 

 that may be needed next season, should be made now 

 while there Is plenty of time and opportunity. Cedar 

 Is much used for such requisites, and now while the 

 swamps are frozen is the time to get It out. 



Walks, If used during the winter, should be promptly 

 cleaned after each snow storm; and when .slippery 

 sprinkled with ashes or salt. 



PLANT CULTURE UNDER GLASS. 



Azaleas require a temperaature of about SO'* F. for 

 flowering. After blooming time the annual growth is 

 made, and during this period they wHi bear 15 or 20 

 degrees more heat along with airing. Repot just after 

 flowering. If part of the plants now are kept In various 

 degrees of temperature, some quite cool, some warmer, 

 and others quite warm, plants may be had in bloom 

 for a much longer period. 



Beeonias of the Rex class propagate easily from the 

 leaf. Use well-matured ones, and cut the main rib on 

 the under side at a dozen or so places, just below their 

 dividing points. Place the pieces upon the propagating 

 bench, with a little sand on top of each to keep them 

 weighted down upon the moist bench. To propagate 

 those of the flowering class use cuttings, and keep 

 them rather dry while rooting. 



Cannas, Caladiums and similar bulbs should be oc- 

 casionally examined in their winter storage. They 

 are liable to be attacked by mice and other enemies. 



Camellias to be placed In a temperature of about 

 5lj^ F., and to have their leaves sponged off several 

 times a week. 



Oarnations. For red spider syringe in bright 

 weather. After blooming clean out the old stalks and 

 tie over as needed. 



Cinerarias now need ample pot room for their roots. 



Dahlia bulbs in winter storage to be occasionally 

 examined. 



General Directions. As the days become longer and 

 brighter, more room between the plants must be given . 

 for nothing detracts more from the appearance of 

 plants than standing too close when growing rapidly. 

 More careful attention should also be given to proper 

 ventilation on all suitable occasions. This is absolutely 

 necessary to the health of plants. Make your plans 

 for next season. Ascertain the number of plants that 

 will probably be required, and govern propagations. ihe 

 procuring of plants, seeds, etc.. accordingly. Carefully 

 estimate the number of pots required, and order them 

 for timely delivery. All used pots should always be 

 carefully cleaned before other plants are put into them . 



Geraniums. Those with variegated leaves should 

 be very near the glass In a rather dry house, and a 

 temperature of about 55** F. Encourage the growth of 

 all plants a.s much as possible. When cuttings have 

 been taken from old plants, these should be potted 

 shortly afterwards. 



Bulbs. Hyacinths and other Dutch bulbs during the 

 blooming 'period to be given plenty of sun and an 

 abundance of water. After blooming remove the 

 flower stalks, and set the pots Into a cool, light place, 

 watering moderately until spring, when the bulbs may 

 be planted outside. 



Lily ol the Valley already started, or now to be 

 started for early bloom, may be brought in succession- 

 ally and given a tempeaature of 8(F F. for the roots, 

 and nearly that much for the house. Protect from 

 excessive sun and cold air by cloth shade, etc., if 

 finest flowers are wanted. 



Misnonette for spring bloom to be kept cool and 

 near the glass. 



Orchids. Guard against drip from the roof, which Is 

 very Injurious. Plants now in new growth to be given 

 a warm and moist situation. Aerldes odbratum and 

 similar varieties need considerable heat and partial 

 shade, and roots should not be allowed to become dry. 



PeUreoniums should he encouraged to make free 

 growth. Give them a warm place, plenty of sun and air. 



Petunias may be grown from seed this month, and 

 should also be propagated from cuttings as fast as 

 wantetl or growth permits. 



Primrose. The Double White to be given more 

 space and proper attention, with a view of propagation 

 from them later. 



Propagation. Cuttings of summer-blooming plants, 

 like Heliotrope, Geraniums. Verbenas, Carnations and 

 others, to be given proper attention In the way of pot- 

 ting, watering, etc.. and new cuttings to be started as 

 fast as desired, or as growth permits. 



Seed Sowinsr. For early annual flowers. Golden 

 Feather, Lobelia, Verbena. Antirrhinum. MImulus. 

 Alyssum, and others may be started from seed. 



FRUIT GARDEN AND ORCHARD. 



Apples and Pears In storage should be Inspected 

 frequently and regularly, and all specimens showing 

 signs of decay to be removed speedily. It is not safe 

 for the health of people to have rotting fruits or veg- 

 etables In the cellar under the dwelling house. Fruit 

 keeps best In a temperature just a little above actual 

 freezing. 



Insects. Little can be done now against insect pests 

 but If you happen to see rings of eggs on the twigs of 

 fruit trees at any time, pause long enough to remove 

 them, twig and all, and throw into the fire. 



Labels. The progressive fruit grower would not be 

 satisfied with the best fruit, except he knew Its correct 

 name. Frail labels are liable to become lost or Illegi- 

 ble. Inspect the labels on your trees several times a 

 year, and put on new ones where needed. Zinc, moist- 

 ened and written with pencil Is excellent, and so Is 

 white Pine, painted white, and written on with soft 

 pencil before the paint Is dry. Use copper wire for 

 fastening to a limb, making the loop large enough to 

 give the limb a chance to grow. 



Manure. Some Pear and Plum crops in this vicinity 

 have again given evidence in favor of high manuring. 

 If stable manure or compost Is at hand, and to be used 

 for the orchard; it may be hauled out now and much 

 more conveniently while snow is on the ground, than 

 on wagons at other times of the year. Potash salts, if 

 to be used, should be applied as soon as possible. Bone 

 is also better applied now than later. 



Pruning to be done in suitable weather. Avoid cut- 

 ting large limbs. The object in pruning hardy orchard 

 trees is to open them to sun and air. Remove the 

 young succulent shoots that have started on the large 

 branches inside the trees. In Peach trees, especially 

 strangling growers, about one-third or even one-half 

 of the new growth may be cut away. Grape pruning 

 to be continued and pushed to an early finish. This Is 

 far better than putting the work off until spring. 



Requisites. Implements, fixings, stock for planting. 

 etc., that may be needed next spring should be ordered 

 soon. Investigate the matter of Insecticides and how 

 to apply them; then make preparations for the pur- 

 chase of sprayer, remedies, etc. Cut or provide the 

 clons necessary for grafting In spring. Store In sand 

 In the cellar. 



Root graftine to be continued. Pack the grafted 

 stocks in sand or sawdust In the root cellar. 



Strawberries. Put on the winter mulch at once If 

 not already done. Mulched beds also need frequent 

 inspection, to return the mulch should it be blown ofl: 

 in spots. 



VEGETABLE GARDEN. 



Cold frames containing Cabbage, Caultfiower and 

 Lettuce plants need plenty of air on mild days. The 

 object Is to keep the plants dormant, and not to en- 

 courage any growth at this time. Cold-frame-wintered 

 plants need all the light that can be given, unless the 

 plants are frozen, when they may remain covered with 

 shutters or snow for two weeks without Injury. 



Celery or any other vegetable that may be on hand 

 of last year's crop to be marketed. 



Hotbed soil If not already stored where It can be 

 got at at any time, should be secured during a thawy 

 spell, and placed under cover. In any place where It 

 will not freeze. Light sandy soil that will not become 

 sodden when watered is to be preferred. Procure new 

 sash when needed. Prepare and repair the old ones. 



Manure to be drawn to the compost heap, and com- 

 post to the field. Fertilizers to be ordered from reli. 

 able manufacturers. The highest-grade fertilizers are 

 cheaper in the end than the so-called cheap manures 

 that cost $20 or $25 a ton. Where barnyard manure 

 can be bought at SI or little more a plump two horse 

 load. It Is the cheapest plant food that is obtainable. 



Planning for next season's work Is In order. Aim 

 to grow crops that are most profitable, and to keep the 

 ground cropped continuously all during the season. 



Seed catalogues are now ready. Send for a number 

 of them and studj' them closely. Make out your list 

 of seeds needed, embracing, on a small scale, some of 

 the most promising novelties. Order early, and when 

 seeds are received, proceed at once to test their ger- 

 minating powers. 



FRUITS AND VEGFTABLES UNDER 

 GLASS. 



Asparagus to be brought In for succession. Give 

 the growing plants an abundance of water. 



Cucumbers to be given a temperature of TCP F. at 

 night, and ^0" during the day. Strong plants may be 

 lightly stimulated by weak manure water. 



Grapes. Houses now being started should be kept 

 cool, not over 35° F. at first. Syringe twice a day, and 

 when young growth appears, give air on mild days. 



Lettnce to be watched for green fiy and rotting of 

 the leaves that is quite liable to occur after a prolonged 

 spell of dark weather Fumigate occasionally but 

 carefully. Tobacco stems cut short and sprinkled 

 over the surface of the soil about the plants serve a 

 good purpose In warding off green fiy. Watering 

 should be done In the morning of clear days only. 



Mushrooms. The best temperature for continued 

 bearing Is about W F. Save and prepare the manure 

 for new beds. 



Rhubarb in thrifty growth to be given plenty of 

 water. 



THE POULTRY YARD. 



Feed Wheat. This done to confined fowls 

 twice a week will pay. 



Bed Pepper. A pod occasionally in the morn- 

 ing makes an excellent tonic. 



Tobacco Dust Sprinkle a little in the hen^s 

 nests.— Germantown Telegraph. 



Kata in the House. Destroy them, every one. 

 If you don't, they will destroy your chicks next 

 spring. 



When your hens " average " so many eggs in a 

 season, do you know which ones helped out the 

 average?— Rural New Yorker. 



Coal Tar and Lice. One writer says that a 

 quart of coal tar to half a barrel of water, and 

 trie solution sprinkled about the hen house, will 

 kill the lice and purify the house. 



Hens Layln? in Winter. The secret lies in 

 feeding plenty of egg-producing food, and pro- 

 viding a warm, comfortable house. A hen that 

 must exert all her energies simply to live cannot 

 produce many eggs. 



Gravel Boxes. Place several boxes of fine 

 gravel about the hen house, and they will afford 

 the material necessary for grinding the grain 

 food. Ground oyster shell or old pieces of mor- 

 tar are good to help them form their egg shells. 



The advice to ventilate the poultry house is 

 seasonable now. We don't mean by cx-aeks in 

 the building, but by a suitable air outlet in the 

 roof. The nests also should be easy of access 

 and inviting. To keep the house clean is always 

 a right course; filth being the foundation of 

 nearly all poultry diseases. 



Keep the Blood Pure. You want early eggs 

 for setting; take away all cocks whose blood you 

 do not want in the flocks. Some of our best 

 poultrymen claim that a hen which has once 

 mated with a cock, never after gets rid of its 

 blood. Raise a few choice specimens this year, 

 but do not try to raise too many.— Poultry 

 Monthly. 



The Lan(?shan. This fowl has been much over- 

 looked, due to its black plumage and dark legs. 

 The Langshan is the most active of the Asiatic 

 breeds; matures early, lays well and is hardy, 

 and one of the best breeds known for the table. 

 It has fine bone, thin skin and juicy meat. It is 

 the favorite breed in China, and in this country 

 it holds a high placeasoneof the leading breeds. 

 —Mirror and Farmer. 



Straw for Chickens. Nothing is cleaner or 



more pleasant for the fowls to scratch in than 

 nice clean straw. Put it away from where the 

 fowls roost. It should be changed once a week. 

 The grain should be scattered in it, as this gives 

 the exercise which in cold weather is the life of 

 a fowl and means good circulation of the blood; 

 this always briuL^s good health. Fowls must have 

 soraethiner to kf ep them active. When they be- 

 come lazy and stupid, don't be surprised if some 

 of them become sick in time.— N. E. Farmer. 



Fayine her Keep, if a hen lays only one egg 

 a week every week in the year, she will be able 

 to more than pay her board. There is double 

 the profit from three eggs there is from two. If 

 eggs are two cents each, and the hen lays two 

 eggs a week, we can subtract one egg for ex- 

 penses of the hen, leaving one egg to be sold, 

 but if she lays three eggs per week she gives two 

 eggs for market Hence, the greater the num- 

 ber of eggs laid the lower the proportionate cost 

 of each, which fact is well known to all. A hen 

 seldom lays one egg per week the entire year, as 

 she requires thirteen weeks, or thereabouts, for 

 moulting, durinir which time she seldom lays at 

 all —Mirror and Farmer. 



Inheritintr Boup. We are firm in our belief 

 that roup is never permanently cured. We may 

 apparently cure it, but its traces are never en- 

 tirely eradicated, and the terrible disease is 

 transmitted to the young stock coming after. 

 We have had this belief greatly strengthened 

 the past year. In the early spring some of our 

 hens cauffht the roup, and at once set about to 

 cure them. We thought we were successful, 

 and that all dnnger was passed. We bred from 

 those hens and carefully noted the results. In 

 nearly every case the chicks from eggs laid by 

 those hens had weak eyes and of swollen faces, "a 

 circumstance not in the chicks from other eggs. 

 As the chicks all had the same care, house, etc.. 

 it is the only cause that we can assign for.— Ger- 

 mantown Tel. 



