I89I. 



POPULAR GARDENING. 



81 



2.141. Keeping Celery after it is Trimmed. A 

 good way of keeping Celery brittle, crisp, and 

 fresh for months is by packing it in moist Sphag- 

 num (Mossl. The roots are cut off, and the, 

 plants trimmed and washed, ready for use. 

 Then take a box, about 12 or 14 inches high; place 

 it on its side, and spread a layer of Moss in it, 

 and upon this a layer of Celery, and so forth, 

 alternately moss and plants. When the box is 

 full, return it to its proper position, so that the 

 plants with tops exposed stand upright as they 

 grew. Keep the moss moist by means of an 

 occasional sprinkling. This method admits of 

 close storage, and insures reasonably long keep- 

 ing.-G. R. 



2,139. Cauliflowers Uneven. No Caulitlower 

 grower's spared the experience complained of 

 by inquirer. Some of the heads are nice and 

 marketable, while others are worthless. On 

 very rich soil with good ci'.lture and a good 

 season, almost any plant of the best strains, 

 such as Snowball and other careful selections of 

 the Early Erfurt, will form a good head. If 

 any one of these favorable conditions is absent, 

 a large proportion may turn out poor.— G. R. 



2,i:i8. Valne of Ashes. No estimate of the 

 comparative \'alues of ashes from the acid works 

 and of Canada ashes without analyses upon 

 which to base calculations. Canada ashes vary 

 greatly in composition A good quality would 

 analyze about five per cent of potash, and two 

 per cent of phosphoric acid and be worth $10 00 

 per ton. The ashes from the acid works are 

 probably of uncertain quality, but it does not 

 take a high percentage of plant food to make a 

 bushel worth four cents. 



2.142. Transplanting Laree Forest Trees, 



Maples and similar trees, when taken up from 

 the forest, should be carefully dug in order to 

 preserve as much root as possible, and while out 

 of the ground, should not be left lying about 

 with roots e.xposed. A western expert gives the 

 following directions for transplanting large 

 forest trees for ornamental purposes-: .\11 above 

 one inch in diameter, to insure success, should 

 be cut back to six, eight, ten or twelve feet, as 

 taste may dictate. 1 prefer six and eight teet. 

 Prune off every limb, leaving the tree when 

 planted, a mere bare stem or stake. Where cut 

 off at top, and where limbs are cut away, they 

 should be painted over with thick common imint, 

 or, better, a thick solution of gum shellac and 

 alcohol. The first duty a transplanted tree has 

 to perform is to get hold of, and identity itself 

 again with the soil. Everything retarding this 

 work should be avoided. Where limbs are left 

 leaves put out soon, and the growth work goes 

 on in that direction, thus retarding work under 

 ground. 



2,1138. Scallion Onions from Sets. The fault 

 sometimes is in the strain of seed used for the 

 sets, but still oftener, I think, in the preparation 

 or composition of the soil. For Onions we want 

 a mellow layer of soil, a tew inches in depth, 

 resting upon a rather solid stratum. Soil prop- 

 erly prepared for winter Wheat, would be in 

 best mechanical condition for Onions. To insure 

 this, we prefer to plow in autum, and only use 

 the harrow in spring. Where the soil is over 

 abundantly supplied with humus, and deep, 

 loose and moist, we may expect more or less 

 Ecallions. The belief that breaking down the 

 tops in the fall will help the bulbs to mature, is 

 quite general among growers. I am not so fully 

 convinced that this treatment is of much prac- 

 tical account, although I sometimes indulge in 

 the practice myself. Many of the thick-necked 

 bulbs, if pulled in time, and given a good long 

 dry spell to cure, will become respectable Onions 

 in the end— G. R. 



2,080, Strawberries for Hill Cnltnre. Plants 

 that make a bushy growth are best adapted to 

 hill culture. The Jessie, Haverland, Parker 

 Earle, Bidwell and Wilson, are therefore the best 

 for hill culture.— L. J. Farmef. 



2,lffi. Alfalfa for Pasture. Alfalfa is a good 

 cow pasture; none better. All you need to do is 

 to keep it well pastured down, then there is no 

 danger of bloating. Any soil that will grow 

 good wheat or Corn will grow Alfalfa. Tramp- 

 ing will eventually kill It. StiU it will take sev- 

 eral years to kill it out when once started.— W. 

 L. Hawlev, Larimer Co., Col. 



2,1.08. Keeping Horse Mannre for TermentiDg. 

 Where but one, or at most two horses arc kept, 

 fresh manure is never in sulBcient supply for 

 making a hot-bed of fair size. To save it in con- 

 dition for hot-bed making along as made during 

 the winter, without either having it burn out by 

 fermentation or freeze solid, and perhaps be un- 

 available when wanted, or becoming water 

 soaked and deprived of its strength, is a serious 

 problem. We know no means by which all this 

 can be done, sav6 keeping the stuff under 

 shelter spread out thinly and loosely enough so 

 it will not come to a heat. Usually we prefer to 

 make arrangements with a neighbor or two for 

 few loads of the fresh horse manure at the time 

 of hot-bed making. A lot of leaves are gathered 

 up and stored in poultry house and barn, to be 

 used as bedding when the hot-bed season ap- 

 proaches. This materiel, thoroughly mixed with 

 horse manure, tempei-s It and produces a moder- 

 ate and lasting heat— G. R. 



2,143. Summer Pruning of the Grape. Slow 

 growing vines, such as the Delaware, should not 

 be cut back. It will be sufficient to rub off some 

 of the buds when just starting Ilampant 

 growers, such as Concord, and most others of 

 the Labrusca species, may ha\'e the ends of the 

 runners pinched off, when several feet long.— K. 



2,162. Grapes Among Dwarf Fears. Dwarf 

 Pears need only a comparatively small space, 

 say 12 feet square each tree. If your trees are 

 set 40 feet apart each way, they will certainly 

 not occupy the occupy the whole area, and it 

 would be simply a waste of ground to leave them 

 thus, without planting anything between them. 

 Grapes will be all right, and if planted as the in- 

 quirer proposes, namely, in rows with the trees, 

 and three rows between each two trees, so that 

 the vines and trees will be ten feet apart each 

 way, both kinds of fruit, with good manuring 

 and clean cultivation should do well. As to 

 "best" varieties, we would plant mostly Con- 

 cord, ;some Worden and some Niagara, unless 

 other varieties have proved to succeed as well, 

 and find a better mrrket. In an experimental 

 wa.v, a few vines of other varieties, such as 

 Moyer, Colerain, Green Mountain, or the older 

 Brighton, Delaware, Moore's Early and Catawba 

 may be set out.— G. H. 



2,145. Plants for Shade. The following list of 

 hardy plauts thrive in shady or partial shady 

 places: Woodruff iAspcruta odorata), Coinus 

 Canadensis, Lady SlipperOrchids [Cypripedivms), 

 ChristmasHose iHcUchorc), Liverwort (Hepatica), 

 Forget-me-not, Plantain Lilies (FuHfcias), Shoot- 

 ing Star (Dtnlecathcon)^ all Ferns and Brakes, 

 Spiked Helonias, Showy Orchis, Bloodroot (Soh- 

 gitinaria}. Wake Kobin {T)-iUium) Wild Violet, 

 Flowering Raspberry, Vinca, Shrubby Hyperi- 

 cum, Box Tree. 



2,125. Tuberoses Not Flowering- The bulbs 

 may not have been old enough to bloom. If 

 kept during the winter where the temperature 

 fall below 40°, the flower scape becomes chilled, 

 consequently the bulb is worthless.— E. L. P. 



2.133. Oleander Not Flowering Give a com- 

 plete rest during some portion of the year. This 

 is best attained by keeping in a frost-proof cellar 

 at least three months in winter. Afterwards 

 repot in good soil and water well.- E. L. P. 



2,131, Trees Barked by Cattle. When a tree 

 has been injured trim the ragged edges of the 

 bark nicely and bandage on a thick plaster of 

 clay, which has been worked nice and soft, and 

 mix with an equal part of fresh cow manure. If 

 the bark has been removed all around the tree, 

 it will certainly give the tree a set back. 



2,1.30. House Walks. Good walks can be made 

 with coal tar and gravel, or still better, the lower 

 part coal ashes and tar, and on this a coating of 

 granite sittings. The way to build it Is to bring 

 the walk to within three inchesof the intended 

 surface with brickbats or similar material, giving 

 the necessary incline, and putting any drains at 

 the proper level, the walk being made precisely 

 as if it were intended to finish with a coat of fine 

 gravel. The ashes should be sifted through a 

 three-quarter inch screen, so as to rid them of 

 the coarser material. They should be dry, and 

 being placed on a hard bottom be made into a 

 mortar-like mass by pouring boiling coal tar into 

 a hole in the centre, and mixing thoroughly. 

 The walk having a somewhat smooth, level sur- 

 face, spread on the tar evenly, and beat down 

 (irmly after having sprinkled it with half-inch 

 granite chips. When sufficiently firm, roll so as 

 to form a close mass and even surface. When 

 dry, which will depend on the weather as its at- 

 taining sufficient firmness to admit of trathc 

 over it, you will have a first-rate walk that will 

 last a lifetime. Granite sittings make a capital 

 walk, having them dry and made into a mortar- 

 like mass with boiling coal tar.— J. B. Ganson, 

 Norfolk Co., Va. 



2.134. Boses in Pots. For the best results they 

 should be repotted every year. They need not 

 be put in larger pots but should te given new 

 soil so that they will have fresh food in abun- 

 dance, this being the essential feature for pro- 

 ducing fine flowers the next season. The time 

 for potting Koses is soon after their season of 

 heavy bloom, using a compost of two-thirds of 

 good turfy loam and a third of well decayed 

 manure. Tea Roses having the addition of a 

 little leaf soil and sand. By repotting them then 

 the new roots take kindly to the soil, which 

 enables the plants to make good growths. After 

 potting they should be plunged in an open situa- 

 tion, and a thick coating of manure placed 

 around and over the surface of the pots, so that 

 the roots are kept cool, and the rains wash in 

 the properties of the manure. Pot Roses re- 

 quire careful attention with respect to watering 

 during the summer. During the winter the 

 surface of the soil may be loosened and a top 

 dressing of rich compost given. They should be 

 pruned once after the heavy crop of bloom. 

 Use a solution of cow manure and soot when 

 the flower bud begin to show, as they advance a 

 sprinkling of fertilizer will be a benefit.— J. M. 

 Macbin, St. Louis, Mo. 



2,132. Planting Lily of the Valley. Plant 

 crowns three inches deep in light, rich soil. 

 Choose a shaded, well-drained position, and give 

 a winter protection of leaves or manure.— E.L.P. 



2,127. Plantains on Lawns. Oil of %ntrol has 

 proved very efficient in destroying this unsightly 

 weed. Pour some vitrol into a can or cup then 

 dip the sharp point of an iron in the vitrol and 

 insert it in the crown of the plant. The vitrol 

 should be used with the greatest care as it is 

 very poisonous and will cause a sore wherever 

 it touches the skin. It destroys all vegetation 

 with which it comes in contact.— J. L. P., Green 

 Co., Tenn. 



2,13:1. Oleander Not Flowering. There are 

 numerous causes why your plants may not have 

 flowered. Perhaps the wood did not ripen 

 thoroughly, or you did not water enough when 

 they were growing, or give them their required 

 rest. The Oleander naturally is a marsh and a 

 dry-baked mud plant alternatel3^ It blooms uni- 

 formly at the points of the shoots, made and 

 ripened the previous season. These facts furnish 

 the basis of successful culture. Any light soil 

 may be used when the plant is young, but when 

 established the soil must be good stiff loam, with 

 a fair portion of decayed cow-dung. The treat- 

 ment is, however, the most important part in 

 having flowers. A plant that has been cut down 

 will commence to growin March; encourage it 

 with water and heat. Thinoutthe young shoots, 

 so those left will have plenty of air and light. 

 Go stopping of young shoots intended to bl< om 

 next season must be thought about. Wherever 

 grown, harden off so as to get the plants out of 

 doors by the beginning of August, and for a few 

 days keep them In a shady place; then full in 

 the sun; watering as they requiie it. By the 

 first of October give not a drop more water than 

 will keep the leaves from flagging. Take means 

 to prevent their being soaked with rains. House 

 before frost; a cool greenhouse or cellar will do. 

 Keep them dryish and cool all the winter; and 

 as soon as the heat of the spring increases, or 

 you put them into heat, then water must be 

 grad ually given ; and as fresh growth commences 

 the flower-buds at the points will show them- 

 selves. When the plauts are intended to bloom 

 every year, there must be a number of young 

 shoots coming on to replace those that areflower- 

 ing.— Mi-s. M. S. R. Newport Co. , B. I. 



2,126. Camellias not Blooming. In all proba- 

 bility is want of sufficient air whilst making and 

 maturing their growth. The Camellia is a hardy 

 shrub, and must not be coddled. When the 

 plants start into growth, the ventilators should 

 be opened on every fine day, closing rather 

 early in the afternoon, syringing on fine days. 

 By the end of June they will have made their 

 growth and wiU begin to form bloom buds, and 

 from this time all through the summer and au- 

 tumn, full air must be left on night and day, 

 unless the weather is rough and inclement, 

 when the front ventilators may be closed. 

 Syringe once or twice a da.v according to the 

 weather. Sometimes Camellias are allowed to 

 suffer badly from drying at the root during 

 summer, a reason being perhaps that the foliage 

 never tells of the suffering by shrinking. 



2,169. Care of Epiphyllums. If the plants 

 have not been repotted for several years the soil 

 must be exhausted and the coming season, after 

 blooming, a shift should take place. The size of 

 the new pots need not necessarily be increased 

 over those they have been occupying. They 

 will do better if the size of the pot is not 

 changed. Thorough drainage is a prime neces- 

 sity, and a liberal layer of medium-sized crocks 

 should be placed in each pot. The most suitable 

 compost is two parts each of fibrous peat and 

 loam and one part each of leaf-mould, thorough- 

 ly decomposed cow dung, and sharp sand. In 

 repotting, reduce the ball b.v about two inches 

 all round, and make the soil thoroughly firm. 

 When the shifting is completed, place where 

 they can have a rather light position, near the 

 glass, and a temperature of about 70 degrees. — 

 J. M. M1TCHEI.L, C;iicn(/(i. j;'. 



2084. 'Wood Ashes for Clav Boil. The ouickest 

 and consequently most satisfactory results from 

 ashes are usually obtained on soil of somewhat 

 sandy character. Siill, I would not hesitate to 

 use them freely on clayey soils, and even then 

 would prefer the unleached wood ashes, especial- 

 ly for fine crops. If the soil is very obstinate 

 and tenacious, applications of coal ashes would 

 improve its texture, make it more porous, and 

 warmer, and perhaps render applications of 

 wood ashes still more effective. The question 

 also hinges largely on the cost of the ashes. 

 Fresh wood ashes are worth two or three times 

 as much as leached ashes for fertilizing purposes 

 but if I had to pay S 10 a ton for Canada ashes 

 and could get the leached ashes for the hauling, 

 or merely at a nominal figure, I would certainly 

 prefer leached article. Canadian fruit growers 

 say they can often get all the fresh ashes they 

 want by collecting it in their neighborhood at 10 

 cents a bushel. At such a rate (about $4 per 

 ton ) these ashes are a wonderfully cheap fertil- 

 izer, and should be used largely, both on sandy 

 and clayey soils.— G. 



