170 CARIPI. Chap. Y. 



northern end of the Ilha das on^as (Isle of Tigers), 

 which faces the city. I bargained for a jDassage thither 

 with the cabo of a small trading vessel, which was going 

 past the place, and started on the 7th of December, 

 1848. 



We were 13 persons aboard ; the cabo, his pretty 

 mulatto mistress, the pilot and five Indian canoemen, 

 three young mamelucos, tailor-apprentices who were 

 taking a holiday trip to Cameta, a runaway slave 

 heavily chained, and myself The young mamelucos 

 were pleasant, gentle fellows : they could read and 

 write, and amused themselves on the voyage with a 

 book containing descriptions and statistics of foreign 

 countries, in which they seemed to take great interest ; 

 one reading whilst the others listened. At Uirapiranga, 

 a small island behind the Ilha das oncas, we had to stop 

 a short time to embark several pipes of casha^a at a 

 sugar estate. The cabo took the montaria and two men ; 

 the pipes were rolled into the water and floated to the 

 canoe, the men passing cables round and towing them 

 through a rough sea. Here we slept, and the following 

 morning, continuing our voyage, entered a narrow 

 channel which intersects the land of Carnapijo. At 

 2 p.m. we emerged from this channel, which is called 

 the Aitituba, or Arrozal, into the broad Bahia, and then 

 saw, two or three miles away to the left, the red-tiled 

 mansion of Caripi, embosomed in woods on the shores 

 of a charming little bay. 



The water is very shallow near the shore, and when 

 the wind blows there is a heavy ground swell. A few 

 3'ears previously an English gentleman, Mr. Graham, an 



