186 CARlPl Chap. V. 



to it through a gloomy tract of virgin forest, where the 

 trees are so closely packed together that the ground 

 beneath is thrown into the deepest shade, under which 

 nothing but fetid fungi and rotting vegetable debris is to 

 be seen. On emerging from this unfriendly solitude near 

 the banks of the Murucupi, a charming contrast is pre- 

 sented. A glorious vegetation, piled up to an immense 

 height, clothes the banks of the creek, which traverses a 

 broad tract of semi-cultivated ground, and the varied 

 masses of greenery are lighted up with the sunny glow. 

 Open palm-thatched huts peep forth here and there from 

 amidst groves of banana, mango, cotton, and papaw trees 

 and palms. On our first excursion, we struck the banks 

 of the river in front of a house of somewhat more sub- 

 stantial architecture than the rest, having finished mud 

 walls, plastered and white-washed, and a covering of red 

 tiles. It seemed to be full of children, and the aspect 

 of the household was improved by a number of good- 

 looking mameluco women, who were busily employed 

 washing, spinning, and making farinha. Two of them, 

 seated on a mat in the open verandah, were engaged 

 sewing dresses, for a festival was going to take place 

 a few days hence at Balcarem, a village eight miles 

 distant from Murucupi, and they intended to be present 

 to hear mass and show their finery. One of the chil- 

 dren, a naked boy about seven years of age, crossed 

 over with the montaria to fetch us. We were made 

 welcome at once, and asked to stay for dinner. On our 

 accepting the invitation a couple of fowls were killed, 

 and a wholesome stew of seasoned rice and fowls soon 

 put in preparation. It is not often that the female 



