84 VOYAGE UP THE TAPAJOS. Chap. II: 



The climate is rather more humid than that of 

 Santarem. I suppose this is to be attributed to the 

 neighbouring country being densely wooded, instead of 

 an open campo. In no part of the country did I enjoy 

 more the moonlit nights than here, in the dry season. 

 After the day's work was done I used to go down to the 

 shores of the bay, and lay all my length on the cool 

 sand for two or three hours before bed-time. The soft 

 pale light, resting on the broad sandy beaches and palm- 

 thatched huts, reproduced the effect of a mid-winter scene 

 in the cold north when a coating of snow lies on the land- 

 scape. A heavy shower falls about once a week, and 

 the shrubby vegetation never becomes parched up as at 

 Santarem. Between the rains the heat and dryness in- 

 crease from day to day : the weather on the first day 

 after the rain is gleamy with intervals of melting 

 sunshine and passing clouds ; the next day is rather 

 drier, and the east wind begins to blow ; then follow 

 days of cloudless sky, with gradually increasing strength 

 of breeze. When this has continued about a week a 

 light mistiness begins to gather about the horizon ; 

 clouds are formed ; grumbling thunder is heard, and 

 then, generally in the night-time, down falls the re- 

 freshing rain. The sudden chill caused by the rains 

 produces colds, which are accompanied by the same 

 symptoms as in our own climate ; with this exception 

 the place is very healthy. 



Jane 17th, — The two young men returned without 

 meeting with my montaria, and I found it impossible 

 here to buy a new one. Captain Thomas could find me 

 only one hand. This was a blunt-spoken but willing 



