Chap. II. DESCENT OF THE TAPAJOS. 143 



Sept. 21st. — At five o'clock in the afternoon we 

 emerged from the confined and stifling gully through 

 which the Cupari flows, into the broad Tapajos, and 

 breathed freely again. How I enjoyed the extensive 

 view after being so long pent up : the mountainous 

 coasts, the gray distance, the dark waters tossed by a 

 refreshing breeze ! Heat, mosquitoes, insufficient and 

 bad food, hard work and anxiety, had brought me to a 

 very low state of health ; and I was now anxious to 

 make all speed back to Santarem. 



We touched at Aveyros, to embark some chests I had 

 left there and to settle accounts with Captain Antonio : 

 finding nearly all the people sick with fever and vomit, 

 against which the Padre's homoeopathic globules were of 

 no avail. The Tapajos had been pretty free from epi- 

 demics for some years past, although it was formerly a 

 very unhealthy river. A sickly time appeared to be 

 now returning : in fact, the year following my visit 

 (1853) was the most fatal one ever experienced in this 

 part of the country. A kind of putrid fever broke out, 

 which attacked people of all races alike. The accounts 

 we received at Santarem were most distressing : my 

 Cupari friends especially suffered very severely. Joao 

 Aracu and his family all fell victims, with the exception 

 of his wife : my kind friend Joao Malagueita also died, 

 and a great number of people in the Mundurucii village. 

 The descent of the Tapajos in the height of the dry 

 season, which was now close at hand, is very hazardous 

 on account of the strong winds, absence of current, and 

 shoaly water far away from the coasts. The river towards 

 the end of September is about thirty feet shallower 



