Chap. IV. A MAMELUCO FARMEE. 301 



is the vivid, light-green and cheerful foliage of the woods 

 on the numerous islets which rest like water-gardens on 

 the surface of the lake. Flocks of ducks, storks, and 

 snow-white herons inhabit these islets, and a noise of 

 parrots with the tingling chorus of Tamburi -paras was 

 heard from them as we passed. This has a cheering 

 effect after the depressing stillness and absence of life 

 in the woods on the margins of the main river. 



Cardozo and I with two Indians took a small canoe 

 and crossed the lake on a visit to Senhor Gaspar Jose 

 Rodriguez, a well-to-do farmer, and the principal 

 resident of Cayambe. His eldest daughter, a home- 

 loving, industrious girl, had married the Portuguese 

 Miguel, my old travelling companion, a few days before 

 we left Eo-a on these rambles. We had attended and 

 danced at the wedding, and this present visit was in 

 fulfilment of a promise to call on the family whenever 

 we should be near Cayambe. Senhor Gaspar was one 

 of those numerous half-caste proprietors, a few of whom 

 I have had occasion to mention, who by their indus- 

 trious, regular habits, good sense, and fair dealing, do 

 credit to the class to which they belong. We have 

 heard so much in England of the worthlessness of the 

 half-caste population of Tropical America that it is a 

 real pleasure to be able to bear witness that they are 

 not wholly bad. It is, however, in retired country dis- 

 tricts where I have chiefly mixed with them. Some 

 of them, such as the friend of whom I am speaking, 

 are, considering their defective education, as worthy 

 men as can be found in any country. There is however, 

 it must be confessed, a considerable number of super- 



