302 EXCURSIONS AROUND EGA. Chap. IV. 



latively lazy, tricky, and sensual characters amongst the 

 half-castes, both in rural ]3laces and in the towns. I 

 found the establishment of Senhor Gaspar similar to 

 that of Joao Trinidade which I have before described, 

 opposite to the mouth of the Madeira. It was situated 

 on a high bank : the dwelling-house was large and airy, 

 but roughly built, and with unplastered mud-walls. 

 There was a considerable number of outhouses, and in 

 the rear, extensive orchards of fruit and coffee trees, 

 with paths through them leading to the mandioca 

 plantations. Senhor Miguel, with his wife, were absent 

 at a new clearing which they had made for themselves 

 in another part of the banks of the lake. The rest of 

 the family were at home. 



We were received with frank hospitality by these 

 shrewd and lively people. Senhor Gaspar had seven 

 children, and had himself taught them all to read and 

 write. The boys were very quick ; one of them after- 

 wards became clerk to the Municipal Chamber of Ega. 

 There was an air of cheerfulness and abundance about 

 the place that was quite exhilarating. 



We dined, seated on a large mat, over which a clean 

 white towel was spread : the meal consisting of fowls 

 and rice (the general entertainment in this country for 

 visitors), with dessert of " laranjas torradas," or toasted 

 oranges ; that is, oranges partially dried in the sun. 

 The fruit, grown with a little greater care in Gasj^ar's 

 orchard than is usually bestowed on it in this country, 

 was very fine in itself, but treated in this form its 

 sweetness and richness of flavour were far superior to 

 anything I had yet tasted. When we were about leaving, 



