394 EXCURSIONS BEYOND EGA. Chap. VI. 



not here see the two shores of the river on both sides at 

 once ; lines of islands, or tracts of alluvial land, having 

 by-channels in their rear, intercepting the view of the 

 northern mainland, and sometimes also of the southern. 

 Beyond the Issa, however, the river becomes evidently 

 narrower, being reduced to an average width of about a 

 mile ; there were then no longer those magnificent 

 reaches, with blank horizons, which occur lower down. 

 We had a dark and rainy night after passing Tunantins, 

 and the passengers were all very uneasy on account of 

 the speed at which we were travelling, twelve miles an 

 hour, with every plank vibrating with the force of the 

 engines. Many of them could not sleep, myself amongst 

 the number. At length, a little after midnight, a 

 sudden shout startled us ; " back her ! " (English terms 

 being used in matters relating to steam-engines). The 

 pilot instantly sprung to the helm, and in a few moments 

 we felt our paddle-box brushing against the wall of 

 forest into which we had nearly driven headlong. 

 Fortunately the water was deep close up to the bank. 

 Early in the morning of the 10th of September we 

 anchored in the port of St. Paulo, after five days' quick 

 travelling from Ega. 



St. Paulo is built on a high hill, on the southern 

 bank of the river. The hill is formed of the same 

 Tabatinga clay, which occurs at intervals over the whole 

 valley of the Amazons, but nowhere rises to so great an 

 elevation as here, the height being about 100 feet 

 above the mean level of the river. The ascent from the 

 port is steep and slippery ; steps and resting-places 

 have been made to lighten the fatigue of mounting, 



