la THE GAME FISH OF NORTH AMERICA. 



their tribe; nor are they^ for the most part, to be surpassed 

 by any in excellence, firmness, and flavour, when in their best 

 condition. 



Those fish which never visit the salt water at all, are unques- 

 tionably so much inferior to others of their own family which 

 run periodically to the sea, that they are with difficulty recog- 

 nised as belonging to the same order with their roving brethren ; 

 while of those, none of which are known to leave the fresh 

 water, but two or three kinds are worth taking at all; and even 

 these are not to be compared with the migratory, or the pure 

 sea fish. 



All excellence is, of course, in some degree comparative, and 

 I am well aware that in the interior of the country, where sea 

 fish are unknown, and where the culinary science is merely in a 

 rudimental state, many fish are deemed excellent ; and are 

 sought out as dainties, simply because they are better than the 

 ordinary tenants of the same waters ; while in any place, where 

 they could be considered in regard to the commonest sea fish, 

 they would be entirely disregarded, and sold, if at all, as among 

 the cheapest and most worthless articles of human food. 



In the same way, many species of game, both of fur and 

 feather, are highly regarded in districts where markets are 

 rare, and well-fed and tender butchers' meat unknown"; and in 

 such places you will find many tasteless and inferior birds and 

 animals highly valued, which in cities, where a variety of flesh 

 and fowl is daily to be procured, where poultry and butchers' 

 meat can always be had, both fat and tender, no person of ordi- 

 nary taste or judgment in the art of eating would allow to 

 come upon his table. 



