A SPORTING TRIP THROUGH ABYSSINIA 



CHAPTER XXXIII 



A local chief — A somewhat cool request — We cross the Takazze — Our guide deserts 

 us — Lose our way — A Tigre chief and his village — The Khalifa's letter-bearer 

 — A buried church and its legend — A fever-haunted, lonely valley — Ruined 

 villages ........... Page 380 



CHAPTER XXXIV 



We reach Adua — A Greek trader — Adua market — King John's interpreter — A 

 tantalising episode — Battle and sporting pictures — Ledj Marcha's house — An 

 Abyssinian trial — My passports discussed — The battle of Adua . . 390 



CHAPTER XXXV 



A visit to Axum — The oldest monolith — The stone of King Aeizanas — Other relics 

 of the past — The governor receives me — The great church — Service — The bell- 

 towers — A mausoleum — The King's seat or coronation stone — The largest 

 obelisk — Sacrificial altars — A curious ornamentation — Jewellery and coins — 

 Colonel Prideaux on Axumite coins — The evidence of the bilingual inscription 

 — Historical dilemma . . . ' . . . . . . 400 



CHAPTER XXXVI 



I take leave of the Nebrid — Discover an inscribed stone — A previous visitor and his 

 reception — Return to Adua — Embroidery — I am allowed to leave — A sign of 

 mourning — The valley of the Mareb — Ant-bears and their ways — A battlefield 

 — An attempt to dig out an ant-bear — A flooded camp — A night vigil — An ant- 

 bear's rendezvous — I wound one — An arduous dig rewarded . . 420 



CHAPTER XXXVII 



The Italian frontier station — A hearty welcome — Civilisation again — News of the 

 world — Return of a lion-hunter — Adi Ugri fortress — Hospitality of the garrison 

 — Intelligence of my journey — My reported massacre — Simien and its snow — 

 Arrival at Asmara — Major Elia — The governor — The club — The gold-mining 

 company — Selling off the caravan — Asmara, new and old — The road to the plains 

 — Rail-head — Massowah — Aden — Marseilles — Home .... 430 



APPENDICES 447 



INDEX 523 



