THE SHUAfS VISIT 



some barley, and a few eggs. He did not impress us by 

 his intelligence, but seemed anxious to help in any way 

 he could and to carry out the Emperor's orders to that 

 effect. H. took his portrait ; and, after a visit of an 

 hour and a half, he left, rather to our relief. Later on, 

 a m^an arrived from Mr. Gerolimato, the British con- 

 sular agent at Harrar, with two mails, and also four 

 mules he had kindly purchased for us, so that we should 

 not have to do quite so much tramping in future. The 

 rest of the afternoon was spent by our Somali syces and 

 ourselves in trying the mules. One was an excellent 

 goer, but bolted at the least rustle of paper or the 

 opening of an umbrella, thus causing endless amuse- 

 ment to our followers and a crowd of villagers. 



As four of our camels had died and eight others were 

 sick or had sore backs, we spent the next day in re- 

 adjusting loads, some of which we intended to leave for 

 Mahomed to bring on later. In the afternoon the 

 Shum paid another long visit, and got through several 

 brandy-lemon fizzes. The more liberal I was with the 

 brandy, the more often I found his glass wanted re- 

 plenishing. We tried to find out what he would like 

 as a present, but, whether it was his native modesty or 

 some other cause, could get no expression of opinion 

 from him ; so we finally gave him a watch, of which he 

 thought so little that he handed it to his clerk, under 

 the impression — so we afterwards heard — that it was 

 intended for him. The real governor of this place 

 spends most of his time at Harrar and leaves his deputy 

 to administer Gildessa, which, owing to the Hawash 

 route to the capital being unsafe for merchants, is only 



