A LARGE MARKET 243 



the broken salts, and was told they were given to the 

 mules and donkeys, because they were bad for horses, 

 and that if a man ate them, his teeth would drop out. 



I now heard that, on the same day I had sent 

 off my messenger to Menelik, Basha Kassa had sent 

 one to Ras Wurgay, to ask for instructions. The reply 

 to this request came six days later, and was to the effect 

 that he could not give me permission to go off the 

 road, but that I could either continue my journey or 

 wait for a reply from the Emperor, in which latter case 

 I was to be supplied with all I wanted. This I refused, 

 as it meant that the wretched villagers v;ere to be 

 heavily taxed for my support. I said all I wanted 

 was that no difficulties should be put in the way of 

 my purchasing supplies, but, as the people made a lot 

 of bother, saying they would be punished for not 

 carrying out the Ras's orders, I had to send away the 

 provisions two nights running, before I could convince 

 them I was in earnest. 



Monday was the day appointed for the weekly 

 market, and a very large one it was, by far the best 

 I had seen since leaving Adis Ababa. At first I told 

 my men to remain clo^e to the tents and not to allow 

 too many men to collect round them, as I felt a little 

 uncertain what the temper of the people might be. 

 However, I found them the same good-natured, curious 

 crowd as they were at Debra Markos and Dembatcha, 

 and I and my men used to stroll about without the 

 slightest interference or rudeness on the part of the 

 villagers. There were not many mules offered for sale, 

 and what there were fetched high prices ; on the other 



