CHAP. XXXI THE GOVERNOR ARRIVES 355 



up-hill, past a pretty little village surrounded by green 

 crops with its church nestling in a fine clump of trees. 

 The path was bad and very steep, the lower part ex- 

 tremely hot, as it wound about the face of the hill ; when 

 at length I reached the top, at 3.30, instead of being on 

 a ridge, which it looked like from beneath, we found 

 ourselves on the edge of a great plateau. Fortunately, 

 the usual rain held off for another hour, and we were 

 able to get camp pitched and everything arranged before 

 it commenced. No one having come from the Balam- 

 baras, I sent to ask when I could see him ; the answer 

 was brought by a headman, who arrived with a sheep, 

 bread, beer, and a message to the following effect : My 

 arrival had not been expected so soon, or I should have 

 been met on the way, that I must be very tired after my 

 long march, and that the chief would visit me on the 

 morrow, when I was rested. 



We pitched camp on a level stretch of grass to the 

 south of the town, which covered the slope of a hill ; the 

 latter was crowned by a stockade which surrounded a 

 number of large buildings. I was told that Balambaras 

 Minyewab, who governed all the country from near 

 Gondar to the Takazze, besides one half of Walkait, on 

 behalf of the Empress Taitu, did not live in this big 

 enclosure, as he had not yet been promoted to higher 

 rank on his appointment as governor, but resided in a 

 small tucul near the foot of the hill, which was pointed 

 out. The stockade and all its fine buildings were left 

 empty, except on feast days, when the Balambaras 

 entertained there. At seven next morning, just as I sat 

 down to breakfast, the governor, with a large following, 



