XXXV RECEIVED BY THE GOVERNOR 405 



position, equal in rank to the Abuna and second only 

 to the Emperor himself. As military leader, diplomatist, 

 and ecclesiastic, he has a great reputation for ability. 



Grouped round him were a number of his officers, 

 priests, and attendants. As soon as he had motioned 

 me to a chair, I unfolded the Emperor's letters, which, 

 when he had read, he returned with a deep bow, saying 

 there was no shikar here. I replied I was aware of 

 that, but that I wanted his permission to visit the church 

 and the other sacred objects in Axum, of whose fame I 

 had so often heard. He immediately gave orders for 

 one of his officers to take me round and show me all 

 the chief objects of interest. I then expressed my 

 reofret that my time was so short, as, thinkino^ Axum 

 was nearer Adua, I had brought no camp-kit and must 

 return that evening. To this he replied : " We cannot 

 allow you to run about the country like a common 

 soldier : remain as my guest to-night, and I will give 

 you a house to sleep in and food for your men and 

 yourself." Thanking him, I bowed myself out, and was 

 led by a side-door into the south side of the sacred 

 grove. Here we had to leave all our rifles, for no one 

 may carry arms inside the sanctuary ; nor can any 

 criminal be taken from its precincts, no matter what 

 the crime may be ; if he can once gain the ghedein he 

 is safe from justice, so long as he remains there. 



The original church, which guarded the true ark 

 brought from Jerusalem by Menelik, son of the Queen 

 of Sheba, was destroyed in 1526 by Muhamed Granye, 

 King of Adel, when he overran and nearly conquered 

 Abyssinia. According to Alvarez it was very large, and 



