Sec. 20.] IMPROVED FARM GATES. 341 



for tliat it is very ea.sy. It is one of the best latches we ever saw to prevent 

 unruly animals from gcttiu'; tlic gate open, and it is very cheaply made, and 

 would be a very safe one for all tlie gates about tlie farmery liable to be 

 opened by the hogs and cattle. 



The following is a good plan of a new gate-hinge or plan of fastening the 

 upper hook or eye of a gate-hinge into the i)0st, which we have seen de- 

 scribed lately, and like it so much that we wish all farmers to know it. In- 

 stead of driving the hook into the post, a hole is bored quite througli it just 

 at the top of the upper rail of the fence, and the shank is made long enough 

 to reacli some inches beyond the post, and has several notches on its upper 

 side. Bore a hole through the rail and put a small bolt with a loophole at 

 one end, to bite into a notch of the hinge, and nut at the other. Of course, 

 when screwed up, the sag of the gate can not draw the hook; but if neces- 

 sary it can be made shorter by shifting a notch or two. 



The following dimensions of a good strong farm gate, and the timber 

 for it, may be taken as pretty near correct : 



Space between posts, 12 feet ; hight of posts above ground, 5 J feet ; slats, 

 12 feet long, 5 inches wide, Ij inches thick for the bottom one, and 3 inches 

 wide for the other si.x ; hight of gate, 4i feet. The ends into which the 

 slats arc tenoned are 2i by 3 inches, 5 feet long. Some prefer to have the 

 top rail double the strength of the middle slats. There are two braces and 

 a center upright fastened with small screw bolts or rivets. If a strap hinge is 

 used, they should lie riveted to the slats. If straps are not used, the iron 

 should be made to clasp the upright, and not go through it. 



In soft land, like that of the "Western prairies, it is ilifficult to make gate- 

 posts stand firm, and they are often formed with a gallows-looking cross-bar 

 overhead. 



A better way is to put this cross-bar and braces at the bottom. Frame 

 the posts and braces into a sill, and bury that three feet deep, and it will 

 cflectually prevent the posts from sagging, and then you may use them of 

 much smaller timber. 



A good light gate is made as follows : Take strips of boards three inches 

 wide, half an inch thick, of any strong wocul ; pine, free of knots and weak 

 spots, will answer, and cut them suitable lengtJis for the length, and others 

 for the width of the gate. Lay down upon a smooth surface several of the 

 short strips not over three feet apart, and then lay the long strips on for a 

 close gate three inches apart at the bottom, gradually widening to the top; 

 then lay down short strips directly over the others, and nail through these 

 M'ith clinch nails. We have sometimes reversed the order, and used two long 

 strips opposite, instead of two short ones, which nuikes a stronger but lienvier 

 gate. Small gates made cither way are quite strong enough. Tiu> hinges 

 should be of a peculiar form, with long straps to clasp the gate so as to rivet 

 through and hold the wood between the iron. 



In Section LII., in an article upon farm fences, something will bo found 

 about how to make gate and fence jiosts durable. 



