26o THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 



boat brought a line ashore, and by means of that a 

 lighter full of peanuts was hauled out by hand. We 

 went with the lighter. The Nyanza is a small steamer, 

 living quarters and engines all aft, freight decks amid- 

 ships, small forecastle, like our Great Lakes freighters 

 on a smaller scale. She is shallow and draws only 

 about six feet. Awful little cabin with saggy and 

 bumpy bunks. Live on the bridge, where meals are 

 served. At about sunset we had completed loading 

 the peanuts, and steamed an hour or so to Korangu, 

 where we dropped anchor for the night. There is no 

 night travel on Victoria Nyanza. Not much sleep. 

 Too many natives aboard, too bad beds. A small 

 group of some of the lake people were singing very 

 sweetly in harmony; the first time I have ever heard 

 Africans do anything but plain unison. A gorgeous 

 night, with the reflection of the land in moonlit water. 



October 13. — Korangu is surrounded, or rather 

 backed, by high, dry-looking mountains, like those of 

 Spain or our own Southwest. Visible is only one tin 

 shed and a small house; though the captain told us a 

 Seventh Day Adventist mission lay over the hill ! We 

 soon steamed away. 



A remarkably hot day. The shores here are of bold 

 high mountains; and many islands made for us a sort of 

 inside passage, so that we lost the effect of the open sea. 

 At one point we worked our way through a passage in 

 which the channel was only 200 feet wide, with a right- 



