30 



NATURE 



\Nov. 9, i; 



By noon of the 22nd, after buffeting against a strong 

 breeze, we succeeded in weathering the northern head- 

 land of the largest bay on the west coast, named on the 

 latest charts Carl Ritter Bay, but agreeing by latitude and 

 relative position with the neighbouring land on the north 

 part of Richardson Bay, In this part of the channel 

 there was very little ice, but three or four miles further 

 north a heavy pack extended across towards Crozier 

 Island, and obliged us to proceed in that direction. In 

 the evening, the wind lulling, I took in the fore and aft 

 sails, and steered through the most open channels to the 

 northward, passing to the westward of Franklin Island, 

 and at midnight we were abeam of Hans Island, with per- 

 fectly clear water between us and the eastern land ; but 

 streams of ice prevented our approaching the western 

 shore. No deep inlet answering to the Carl Ritter Bay of 

 the charts exists in its given latitude. Steaming to the 

 northward, I endeavoured to close the western shore 

 south of Cape Cracroft, but the ice prevented our doing 

 so, and forced me to bear up to the eastward for Cape 

 Bryant, passing which I found the pack extending across 

 from Cape Morton and Joe Island to Cape Lieber, with a 

 south-westerly wind constantly adding to it by driving 

 more ice to the northward through Kennedy Ciiannel. 

 The Discovery then landed a depot of 240 rations at 

 Cape Morton for use of any travelling party exploring 

 Petermann Fiord, and the ships beat back to Bessels Bay, 

 in the entrance of which we obtained a sheltered anchorage 

 to the north of Hannah Island. 



On the 24th, the south-west wind still continuing, which 

 I knew would open the ice on the western shore of Hall's 

 Basin, I ascended Cape Morton. At an altitude of 2,000 

 feet it was perfectly calm, with a clear sky. The prominent 

 capes of the channel were clearly visible — Cape Union 

 seventy miles distant, and Cape Sumner fifty miles, the 

 one locking in beyond the other to within five degrees. 

 All the west coast of Kennedy Channel, up to Cape 

 Lieber and Lady Franklin Sound, was clear of ice, with 

 navigable water through the ice streams in the middle of 

 the channel far to the northward. From Joe Island to 

 the north, and east to Polaris Bay, the ice was clearly 

 packed, but between Cape Lupton and Beechey was more 

 open. Hurrying to the boat the ships were signalled to 

 get under way, and we ran quickly to the northward 

 across the channel under sail. Five miles north of Cape 

 Lieber the pack obliged me to enter Lady FrankHn Sound, 

 on the northern shore of which an indentation in the land 

 gave promise of protection. On a nearer approach we 

 discovered a large and well-protected harbour inside an 

 island immediately west of Cape BelJot, against which the 

 pack ice of the channel rested. Here the ships were 

 secured close to the shore on the morning of August 25. 



On entering the harbour we had the satisfaction of 

 sighting a herd of nine musk-oxen, all of which were 

 killed ; our joy at the good luck of the sportsmen and 

 ourselves being greatly increased by the news that the 

 vegetation was considerably richer than that of any part 

 of the coast visited by us north of Port Foulke, the 

 Elysium of the Arctic regions. Finding that the harbour 

 was suitable in every way for winter quarters, and the 

 abundance of the spare Arctic vegetation in the neigh- 

 bourhood giving every promise of game being procurable 

 I here decided to leave the Disi.overy, and to push forward 

 with the Alert alone. 



Owing to our high northern position, although the sun 

 was still above the horizon at midnight, its altitude at 

 noon was too low to affect the temperature much, conse- 

 quently, after August 20 the temperature of the air re- 

 mained steadily below freezing point for the winter, and 

 the young ice was forming at midday much earlier than 

 it does in more southern latitudes. Notwithstanding this, 

 Arctic navigation depends so much upon the wind, that I 

 considered that the transient Arctic season of twenty days' 

 duration was still at its height. The ice in Robeson 



Channel was well broken up, moving up and down 

 strait with the change of tide, and only waiting for a v 

 to open a passage along shore. 



Having strengthened my crew by embarking Li 

 Wyatt Rawson and seven men belonging to the Discoz 

 forming one travelling sledge party, on the morninj 

 August 26 the two ships forming the expedition, 

 officers and crews of which had worked so harmonio 

 and successfully together, separated ; those embarkin 

 one, if the published charts and the statements of 

 predecessors proved correct, having the cheering feeli 

 of in all human probability successfully completing 

 chief task assigned us, but the others, although elatei 

 the prospects of their comrades and partaking gener 

 in the inspiriting feelings, having a desperate figh 

 conquer the sensation of being left behind to play v 

 they could not but consider a secondary part in 

 general programme. 



On arriving at the entrance of the harbour the n 

 pack was found to have closed in against the shore 

 completely filled up Lady Franklin Sound, some si 

 floes streaming rapidly into Discovery Bay. In em 

 vouring to keep the ship clear of these, she touc 

 the ground at the top of high water and hung there 

 half an hour, when, fortunately, by lowering the bi 

 and hghtening the ship a little, she floated again witl 

 damage. During the afternoon, at lovv water, the p; 

 which, apparently uninfluenced by wind, had been mo) 

 to the southward the whole day, but fastest during 

 flood tide, drifted slightly off ttie land. Immediate 

 vantage was taken of the welcome opening which enat 

 us to proceed north, but on reaching Point Murchi: 

 the pack extending completely across the strait, prever 

 all farther progress ; there was therefore nothing fo 

 but to return to " Discovery Harbour," where the ; 

 was again secured at the entrance ready to advance 

 the first opportunity. 



On the 27th we experienced very light north-east wii 

 The ice in the channel continued to move to the soi 

 ward, except during the height of the ebb tide, whe 

 was either stationary or set slowly northward, but 

 sufficiently so to open a navigable passage, although 

 before high water it appeared so ready to move thz 

 was induced to recall the skating parties to the ship 

 keep the steam up. On the 28th the ice was decide 

 more open, and we were just about to move at 11 7\ 

 the commencement of the north running tide, whe 

 thick fog enveloped us, and, hiding everything at n 

 than twenty yards distance, effectually prevented 

 moving. Later in the afternoon it cleared off, but it 

 now low water, and on trying to move the ship I fo: 

 that, although afloat, she was within a basin, surroun 

 on all sides by a raised embankment of mud, so, with 

 tantalising prospect of an open channel before us, we v 

 forced to remain until the rising water enabled 

 lightened ship to pass over the obstacle. Hoisting up 

 boats and signalling a final "good-bye " to the Discov. 

 we succeeded in advancing to within a mile of C 

 Beechey, fifteen miles north-east of Discovery Bay, wl 

 in a tussle with a he ivy floe- piece, the rudder-hea 

 which had been badly sprung some days before — becc 

 so injured that the rudder was nearly useless ; at the si 

 time the pack was sighted pressing tight in against the c 

 on the northern side ; I therefore secured the ship in; 

 some grounded ice and shifted the rudder. While wail 

 at this part of the coast the sportsmen were fortur 

 enough to capture three more musk-oxen, a very welcc 

 addition to our supply of fresh meat. 



On the 29th the pack remained closed in to the noi 

 ward of Cape Beechey until noon, when, at about the t 

 of high water, from the suaimit of the cape, I observe 

 opening. The ship was immediately signalled to advai 

 and, picking up my boat on the way, we succeeded 

 reaching Lincoln Bay, but not without having to run 



