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NAVARHA. 



NAVARllA. 



010 



Smrfaet. — The great mountain chain of tha Fynnaaa entering from 

 Ancon run* along tha northern border of Nararra, the im-gular line 

 of the summit-level forming the boundary between thia pruviuca and 

 France aa far a« the pan of Lanx, which i< alwut 10 miles W. from 

 tha paai of Ronoasrallea. From thia point the main ridge coutinuei 

 its ooorse westward, whilst an otbet of leas elevation runs first north- 

 ward in tha direction of Bayonna, and then westward towards the 

 mouth of the Bidasaoa, where it terminates. Thia oSaet incloses the 

 wh<^ course of tha Bidaaaoa except about six miles at the mouth of 

 theriTer, and thuii indndea, at the north-west angle of Navarra andon 

 tha northern or French side of the summit-ridge of the Fyreneee, a beau- 

 tiful and fertile seriaa of Talleys, the prindp^ of which are those of 

 Bastao, San Estrtian, and the Cinco Villas, the last receiving ita name 

 from the five hamlets of Echalar, Sumbilla, Lasaca, Vera, and Aranaz. 

 Tha aummit-level of the IVrenean chain is of leas elevation in Navarra 

 than it is in Aragou, the highest summit in Navarra being only 5400 

 feet above the level of the sea. 



Navaira south of the summit-level of the Pyreneea consists mostly 

 of a aaries of oSBwt-ridges, which gradually decrease in height aa they 

 •ztand aoothward towuds the valley of the Kbro, which river bounds 

 tlta whole of the province on the south, with tho exception of the 

 BMcinadad of Tudela at the south-eastern comer. Several of the 

 olbets from the Pyrenean chain extend far into the central and 

 southern parts of Kavaira; they have some lai^ge valleys between 

 them, and several smaller ones, and leave a conaiderable extent of 

 fertile plains on the northern side of the Ebro. 



Navarra, from its mountainous character, is almost isolated from 

 the countries around it Acroas the Pyrenees there are ten peases ; the 

 five prindpat are those of Vera, Lanz (or Haya),RonoesvaUe8,Oohagavia, 

 and Isava. On the sides of Biscaya and Aragon the approaches are 

 mora difficult ; and on the side of Castilla the deep and rapid Kbro 

 forms a barrier passable only by the three bridges of Logrofko, Lodoaa, 

 andTudeU. 



Of the geology of Kavarta little ia known. Tho mountains are 

 mostly of transition and secondary rocka. Jasper and marbles occur 

 in some places, and there are many mines of iron. 



Rirtn. — All the rivers which descend on the southern side of the 

 I^renean chain fall into the Ebro. [Kbbo.] The river Aragon enters 

 Navana from the province of Aragon. It soon afterwards receives 

 the Sahuar, the Irati, and some smaller rivers, pasBcs southward by 

 Bangaeaa, and after flowing in this direction about 20 miles takes a 

 western course, daring which it receives the Cidacos on the north 

 bank. It afterwards receives the Arga, and then turning southward 

 ■oon reaches the Ebro. The Arga rises above Pamplona, among the 

 ridges of the Pyrenees, and receivea the Araquil from the west, below 

 Pamplona, and many other smaller affluents on both banks. The only 

 other river of importance on the south side of the Pyrenees i» the 

 Sga, which has an eastern course past Eatvlla, and then flows south- 

 cast and south till it enters the Ebro about 12 miles above the mouth 

 of the Aragon. On the northern side of the Pyrenees the Bidatwa 

 is the only river of importance in Navarra, It arises from two head- 

 Btreama, and has at first a southern course, but afterwards turns west- 

 wanl, and flows to San Esteban de Lerin, whence it pursues a northern 

 ooorse, forming by itself and its numerous small affluents the beautiful 

 nties of valleys before mentioned. The valley of Bastan extends 

 about twenty-Uiree miles from north to south, and has a varying width 

 of from two to three milaa The river in this the upper part of ita 

 ooune is called Baatan-Zubi, and does not receive its name of liidassoa 

 till after it turns and enters the valley of San Estebao. It after- 

 wards commences ita courae northward, and paaaos through the 

 valley of the Cinoo Villas, The total length of the Bidasaoa is about 

 is miles. 



Climait, Soil, and Produdiamt. — The climate of the northern dio- 

 tricta is exceedingly cold in winter, and rarely subject to excessive 

 bast in summer; in the south it \» tat more genial, and highly 

 delightful and aaliibrioiir. The soil in the low grounds is very rich, 

 and susceptible of a high degree of cultivation ; there ia also much 

 floe psMtors-land. 



Fortats of pines (Ptniw lyUairit) cover the slopes of the Pyrenees, 

 •nd much wood is cut, and sent down by the mountain-streams to 

 *)>• Kbro, by which it is floated onward to Aragon and Cataluba. 

 ^tlM other prindpal fureat-trees are the oak, evei-green and deciduous, 

 tho olive, tho ohestant, and the beach. The forests aro not extensive, 



a Navarra yialda mora valuable timber than any other province of 

 la. Heraia, ferns, and broom, with many aromatic plants, grow 

 OB tbo iidos of tha mountains. Of grain Navarra yields annually about 

 4,000,000 Imahola, oonsistfaig of wheat, maize, barley, oats, rvo, and 

 ■polt-wbcoi. Other TentabU productions are chestnuts, broad beans, 

 UdDoy-bsaDo, hemp, and flax. Of oliveniU about 160,000 gaUons are 

 prodnoad, and of winea, which are excellent and of various desorip- 

 tioiM,abont 10,000.000 gallons. After an abundant vintage people aro 

 invit«l by tl>e public crier to Uko the old wine away from particular 

 vaults gntio, in order to make room for the new. A small quantity 

 of eider is also prodooed in the valleys of the Bastan and Cinco 

 VilkM. 



Tboro are in Navarra about 40,000 head of homed cattle, 700,000 

 •beep, 70,000 goata, 40,000 pign, .nd :I0,000 mnles. Tho annual 

 prodooeof wool amounts to 1,500,000 Iba. The mountains abound 



in game and tha rivers in fish. Tho wild animals ars wolves, foxes, 

 ana wild boars. 



TUu manufactures of Navarra are inconsiderable. There are several 

 manufactories of coarse linen and woollen-dotli, and some of leather, 

 soap, and iron. The quantity of brandy annually distilled averages 

 about 2,000,000 gallons. Beudea these are some potteries and soma 

 manufactories of Spanish liquorice. 



The greater part of the produce, natural and manufactured, is con- 

 sumed in the province, but some grain, a little oil, half the wine, the 

 greater portion of the wool, and two-thirds of the iron annually 

 remain imoonsnmed, and are exported, which however foil very far 

 short in amount of the cottons and silks, cutlery, tobacco, sugar, 

 spices, and other luxuries, imported, principally from France. 



Towtu. — The city of Pamplona is the capital of Navarra. It is 

 situated on the western or left bank of the Arga, in 42° 48' N. lat, 

 1° 40' W. long. The river here makes a bend northward, and fiowa 

 through the beautiful plain called La Cuenca, which is about 30 miles 

 in circumference, and is full of beautiful gardens and verdant meadows, 

 Pamplona was anciently the court of tho kings of Navarra, and haa 

 Bince been the residence of the viceroys of the province, is now the 

 seat of the captain-general and the local government, and ia the see of 

 a bishop, suffragan of the archbishop of Burgos. The population in 

 IS 15 was 11,000. The city is built on an eu)inenco, and is defended 

 by a dtadel, which overlooks the river by two of its bastions, and 

 commands the level plain with the others, and is not commanded 

 itself : it is a regular pentagon of 1000 feet each side, and is connected 

 with the city by an esplanade, or glacia The river is crossed by several 

 bridges, and baa a suburb called La Ilochapea. The city itself is well 

 built, well paved, and well deansed. The fountains are abundantly 

 supplied from a noble aqueduct constructed by Ventura Kodrigucz 

 with Roman solidity, and which brings the water from the hills of 

 Subizo, 12 miles distant : one portion of it, 2300 feet long, ia supported 

 on 97 arches of 35 feet span and 65 feet high. The cathedral is small, 

 and the exterior is disfigured by a Corinthian fa9ade constructed in 

 1783, but the interior is of a good light gothic. The city contains also 

 four parish churches, an episcopal palace, a town-hall, a university, a 

 casa de espositos (foundling hospital), a tbeatre, and a plaza de toros, 

 or bull arena. Tho Plaza del Castillo, which is the principal square, 

 is also, on great festivals, converted into a plaza de toroa. There are 

 public walks on the roads leading to Madrid, to France, and liS Hioja, 

 but the alamoda in the city, called La Taconera, is the most admired 

 and most frequented. The manufactures and tr.ide are of small 

 importance. Pamplona ia called Pompelon by Strabo (161, Casaub.), 

 who adds, " as if it might bo Pompeiopolis," that is, the City of 

 Pompey. The people are called Pompelonenses by Pliny (iii. 3). The 

 name of the city was corrupted by the Arabs, who took it in the 

 beginning of the 8th century, into Bamblona. In 1803 it was Stiize<l 

 by the French, who hod been allowed to enter as friends ; it was held 

 by them till 1813, when it capitulated to the allies under the Duke of 

 Wellington, after the battle of Vitoria. 



Catcantc, 58 miles S. from Pamplona, overhangs the small river 

 Queyles, an affluent of tho Kbro flowing from tho south. There are 

 two bridges over the Queyles. The town contains two churches, in 

 one of which is a very fine retablo, or carved altai^pieco, exeoutoJ in 

 1596. The population is about 3000. CortUa, 45 miles & by W. 

 from Pamplona, stands in a fertile plain, on the west bank of the 

 Alhama, a small affluent of the Ebro from the south. It has several 

 distilleries of brandy, some oil-mills, and some liquorice-factories. 

 The population in 1845 was 4648. EttMa, 27 miles .S.W. front 

 Pamplona, is an ancient city, now tho chief town of the luenndad of 

 Estella. It is situated on the river Ego, which is here joine<l by the 

 Amescoa, It has a ruined alcazar on an eminence, and contains two 

 old churches, an hospital, and a coUq^, and has some manufactures 

 of woollens. The population in 1845 was 6192. (Mile, 28 miles S. 

 from Pamplona, is the chief town of the meriudad of Olite. It is 

 situated on the west bank of the Cidacos, and contains remains of 

 old walls and of an old royal palace, once a residence of the kings of 

 Navarra. Tho population in 1845 was 2748. Sangueta, 25 miles 

 S.K. from Pamplonn, the chief town of tho merindad of .Sanguesa, is 

 situated on the west bank of tho river Aragon, which is hero crossed 

 by a stone bridge. Tho town is inclosed by walls except on tho aide 

 next the river, where there are embankments as a defence against 

 inundations of the river. The streets aro wide and well paved, 

 and the houses tolerably well built. It contains four parish 

 churches, and has some brandy-distilleries. The ])upulation is 

 about 3500. Tufalla, 23 miles ,S. from Pamplona, is built on the 

 west bank of the Cidacos, about 6 miles above Olite. It is surrounded 

 by old walls, and contains the ruins of a royal palace. It has brauJy- 

 distilleries and tanneries^ Tho population in 1845 was 2912. This 

 town and Olite were favourite places of residence of the kings of 

 Navarra. Tudda, 52 miles S. from Pamplona, the chief town of the 

 marindad of Tudela, is situated a little above the mouth of the 

 Queyles, on the south bank of the Kbro, in the angle formed by the 

 junction of tho two rivers. The Kbro is here crossed by a substantial 

 stone bridge of 17 arches, and 1200 feet in length. The town is the see 

 of a bishop.tho collegiate church having been raised to the rank (if a 

 cathedral in 1 78.'), when the bishopric was cstablinhi'd. Tlii^i cathcilral is 

 an ancient gothic structure, and contains the tomb of Blaucbo of Oastilla, 



