THE OPENING YEAR 



They need shortening back three times from the Jan. 

 " maiden " tree, and this is generally done by the ^"^5 

 nurseryman, who sells the tree ready trained. The 

 price is relatively high, it is true ; but as Peaches re- 

 quire skilful handling, it is worth while for amateurs to 

 buy them in a fairly advanced stage. They need then 

 only shorten the branches by one-third after planting. 



The side shoots between the main branches are the 

 fruit bearers. They will themselves push shoots as well 

 as expand flowers either in winter or spring, and these 

 shoots must be reduced to two, one at the base and one 

 at the tip, by what is called *' disbudding " — that is, 

 picking them out with finger and thumb directly they 

 commence to grow. The shoot at the base will grow 

 to a length of eighteen inches or so (if much more than 

 this the tree should be lifted and root pruned the follow- 

 ing winter) during the summer, and may be tied in to 

 fruit the following year. The shoot left at the tip of the 

 current bearing growth is only retained in order to 

 maintain a free flow of sap, and need not be allowed 

 to expand more than a couple of leaves, when the tip 

 may be pinched off. 



By this simple routine, which any amateur can learn 

 by a season's observation and experience, a constant 

 supply of fruiting shoots is maintained in Peaches and 

 Nectarines year after year. 



Pruning Pears. — The Pear bears its fruit on spurs, 

 which mature slowly but steadily. Before the days of 

 the Quince stock for Pears, the spurs developed very 

 slowly, hence the old line : 



" Plant Pears, plant for your heirs." 



This is no longer apposite. Nurserymen graft Pears 

 on to the Quince stock, and then send them out to 

 37 



