THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK 



Jan. customers in a fair way for bearing. As a matter of 

 ^"^5 fact, fruit generally comes the second or third year 

 after planting, and thereafter pretty regularly. The 

 object of the grower should be to get a bush with from 

 ten to fifteen main branches quite clear of each other, 

 and growing outward, just as in the case of Apples. 

 Such trees are sure to form fruit spurs quickly unless 

 rich soil encourages over-vigorous growth, in which 

 case root pruning will be needed. When the trees have 

 developed, the annual pruning will consist of pruning 

 back the side shoots in winter, leaving the fruit buds 

 at the base. These fruit buds come the quicker if 

 summer pruning is practised (see June and July 

 chapters). 



Pruning Plums and Damsons. — These fruits bear on 

 the mature wood, but not wholly on spurs. After the 

 first exuberance of youth is spent (and if considerable it 

 can be curbed by root pruning), the trees do not make a 

 great deal of coarse annual growth. They form spurs 

 and stubs, on which they bear. They also form fruit 

 buds along the mature shoots, like Cherries and some 

 Apples. Such side shoots as exist are generally short, 

 and may be cut close back in winter. 



Use of Tree Prunings. — The shoots cut out of fruit 

 trees in winter are best burned, because the eggs of 

 destructive caterpillars are sometimes attached to them ; 

 but if it is desired to graft some trees in spring, a few of 

 the best shoots may be tied into a bundle and laid in the 

 soil in a shady place, or in a cool outhouse, until spring 

 (see Chapter III.). 



Early Indoor Grapes. — In those gardens where Vines 



are forced so as to yield early supplies of Grapes, it will 



soon be necessary to start the canes into growth by 



maintaining a temperature of not less than 50°, and 



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