April 

 I- 15 



THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK 



of strong-growing sorts. The hard pruning of former 

 days was not wholly wrong, from the point of view, and 

 with the class of variety, which prompted it. Indeed, I 

 would recommend its imitation even now for weak 

 Roses, especially if show flowers are wanted. Roses 

 with twigs no thicker than macaroni may be cut back 

 hard — every shoot to within three or four buds of its 



base — each spring. The 

 modern system of light 

 iV pruning would be carried 

 (j/j to undesirable extremes if 

 7/ weak growths were trifled 

 '•^ with. Perhaps some weak 



Roses have already been 

 partially pruned, in pur- 

 suance of the hints given 

 in my last chapter ; let 

 the work be completed 

 now to the extent here 

 indicated. 



The disposition to prune 

 Roses on the whole more 

 lightly than was formerly 

 the case has sprung into 

 being as a natural result 

 of the introduction of a 

 considerable number of Teas and Hybrid Teas. These 

 new-comers have a much more vigorous habit than the 

 majority of the old Hybrid Perpetuals, which once held 

 the sway. They form long, strong shoots — approximating, 

 in some cases, to those of recognised climbers. When 

 these shoots get well ripened, they are quite capable 

 of developing subsidiary shoots, on which flowers are 

 borne. Varieties of this type do not need severe annual 

 170 



Fig. 36.— Pruning Dwarf Roses. 



a. How to prune a dwarf Rose of 



medium strength. 



b. How to prune one of strong growth 



for exhibition flowers. If grown 

 for garden effect it need not be cut 

 so low by one-half. 



c. A small basal shoot which must be 



cut away entirely. Prune to buds 

 pointing outwards. 



