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How to Make a Flower Garden 



The spring-blooming kinds may be planted 

 like snowdrops in lawns. Both spring and 

 autumn blooming species do well in rockeries. 

 Columbine (Aquilegia). Sow seeds in 

 midwinter and transplant when the seedlings 

 are large enough, using small pots or flats. 

 These plants, if kept growing vigorously, 

 should blossom the first season. Plant in 

 any soil, among rocks, or in borders exposed 

 to the sun, but sheltered from wind. Further 

 propagation is easily effected by division — 

 the only safe way to secure plants like the 

 parents if more than one species or variety 

 is growing in the neighbourhood. 



CONE-FLOWER. See RUDBECKIA. 



Coral Bells {Heiichcra sanguinea). Sow 

 seeds in early spring in a hotbed or mild green- 

 house, transplant the seedlings to small 

 pots when about two inches tall, and again to 

 ordinary garden soil, about one foot apart, 

 when the weather becomes settled. Later 

 sowings may be made in the open ground. 

 If grown as a perennial, the clumps may be 

 divided in spring when the ground becomes 

 warm. Cuttings may be made for winter 

 use in late summer and for summer use in 

 late winter. 



Coreopsis. Sow the seed in a hotbed in 

 earlv spring or in the open ground for later 

 bloom, and, when a few inches tall, transplant 

 about two feet apart in ordinary garden soil. 

 The perennial varieties may be propagated 

 by greenwood cuttings taken in summer and 

 set in a coldframe or by division of the clumps 

 in autumn or spring. 



Corn-flower {Centaurea Cyaniis). Sow 

 seed where the plants are to remain and 

 thin to about eighteen inches. Any soil will 

 suit. The plants self-sow. 



Cosmos. Sow the seed in a mild hotbed 

 or greenhouse in early spring; transplant the 

 seedlings when large enough to handle and as 

 often thereafter as they need, and set in the 

 open ground when the season has become 

 settled, choosing rather poor soil and fairly 

 sunny situations protected from wind. On 

 rich soil they grow spindling and produce 

 fewer and inferior blossoms later in the 

 season than those on poorer soil. Pinching 

 out the leading shoots of the young plants 

 helps to make them stockier and more 

 prolific. 



Cotton {Gossypium). Sow seeds in a mild 

 greenhouse or hotbed in late winter or early 

 spring. Transplant to small pots and perhaps 

 again before the weather becomes settled, 

 when the plants may be set in the garden 

 about two feet apart mainly to form back- 

 grounds for smaller growing plants. 



Cowslip, American. See Shooting-star. 



Cowslip, Virginia. See Bluebells. 



Cram BE (C. cordifolia). Sow seeds in 

 ordinary soil where the plants are to remain 

 or in a separate bed from which to be trans- 



planted. Allow three or more feet between 

 plants. If desired, start in a hotbed or 

 greenhouse and transplant to pots or flats 

 while the plants are small. The flowers are 

 rarely produced before the third year, after 

 which the plants fail. During the first two 

 years the foliage is ornamental. Plant 

 annually for succession. 



Cress, Rock {Arabis). Sow seeds in early 

 spring where the plants are to reinain and 

 then to about four inches. They thrive 

 well in poor soil, but require plenty of sun. 

 The perennial kinds are usually propagated 

 by division. Cuttings root readily. See 

 also Aubrietia, which is sometimes called 

 Rockcress. 



Crocus. Plant bulbs in early autumn 

 about three inches deep in a sunny situation 

 and well-drained, rather light, fairly rich 

 soil. After the foliage has turned yellow, dig 

 up the bulbs, dry them in the shade, clean 

 and store them until planting time. If 

 planting be delayed, the bulbs will start to 

 grow. They may be allowed to remain in 

 the ground two years without damage, but 

 if three or more years they are likely to push 

 out of the ground. 



Crocus, Autumn. See Colchicum. 



Crown Imperial. See Fritillaria. 



Cyclamen. Sow seeds in December or 

 January, and, as the little plants become 

 large enough to handle, transplant them to 

 small pots or to flats, in which they must be 

 kept growing vigorously. As they need 

 more space, plant them singly in pots, using 

 a light, fairly rich potting soil. When the 

 weather becomes settled, transfer the pots 

 to a partially shaded location out of doors, 

 plunging the pots almost to their rims in a 

 well-drained soil. By September the plants 

 should be in five-inch or six-inch pots, in 

 which they are to flower. About fifteen 

 months must elapse from planting the seed 

 before the flowers appear. Only vigorously 

 growing plants should be kept; the slow ones 

 are not worth saving. Bulbs obtained from 

 seedsmen are frequently unsatisfactory 

 because thev have become dried. 



Cup and Saucer. See Canterbury Bells. 



Cypress-vine {Iponicca Quamoclit). Sow 

 the seeds in early spring where the plants 

 are to remain, choosing good garden soil 

 and a rather sunny exposure. Thin the 

 plants to about eight inches; provide upright 

 wire or string trellis ten feet or more high 

 for the plants to twine upon. 



Daffodil. Plant the bulbs three or four 

 inches deep in atitumn in good garden soil 

 and in partial shade. Each bulb will produce 

 a clump of bulbs in the course of three or 

 four years, when, after the foliage has died 

 down, they should be dug up, divided, and 

 replanted. The clumps are often allowed 

 to remain longer, but the production of 



