PROBLEMS IN WALL-GARDENING 6i 



joints and corners of bricks (when a builder is not 

 looking on) exactly where he wishes to have his ranges 

 of plants. 



A well-built wall, seasoned and solidified by some 

 years' standing, will bear a good deal of such knocking 

 about. In chiselling out the holes the only thing that 

 had better be avoided is making much of a cavity just 

 under an upright joint; nor is it ever needful, for 

 even if one wishes to have a longish range of any 

 one plant, as shown in the diagram in the case of the 

 growth horizontally hatched, the plants will close up, 

 though planted in the first place a little way apart, while 

 there is nothing against widening any upright joint or 

 making it gape funnelwise either upward or down. 



The diagram gives a general indication of the way 

 in which it is advised that plants should be disposed. 

 It shows four kinds in a section of wall of from six to 

 seven feet long. Three of the kinds are hatched across 

 in different ways to distinguish them. Even this sort 

 of arrangement would be monotonous unless it were 

 varied by some wall spaces left almost blank, and then 

 perhaps with one such range alone. The four kinds 

 are almost too many at a time, and were only crowded 

 in to illustrate the same kind of arrangement with 

 slight variations. The way of growth must, of course, 

 be taken into account, for it would be a grievous 

 oversight to plant a range of Rock Pinks or Arabis or 

 Alyssum, that in a year or two will hang down two 

 feet, and to plant in the next course below them some 

 other smaller things that would soon be smothered. 

 So the upright growth of Wallflower, Snapdragon, and 



