18 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK NO. 3 09, U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE 



valves. The valves are used to 

 bleed out air bubbles, to drain the 

 system as needed, or to shut off the 

 water. If the water contains sedi- 

 ment, a half -barrel can be advan- 

 tageously used instead of the stand- 

 ard pressure-reducing tank. The 

 outlet for the supply pipe can be 

 installed several inches above the 

 bottom of the barrel. The sedi- 

 ment will then collect below the 

 outlet pipe and will not get into 

 the system and clog it. Other sedi- 

 ment traps, installed between the 

 tank and the supply pipe to the 

 hutches, can be used with any type 

 of tank. 



One-gallon tanks or smaller 

 tanks sometimes are used where the 

 weather is warm. Such tanks are 

 emptied more often. The constant 

 flow of water in and out of the 

 tank keeps fresh cool water before 

 the rabbits at all times. 



Install the pressure tank 1 foot 

 or more above the highest hutch. 

 If the supply pipe is raised to clear 

 the feeding alleys, then install the 

 tank about 1 foot above this high- 

 est point. 



Raised supply pipes may require 

 vent pipes to keep air bubbles out 

 of the system. Install the vent 

 pipe at the highest point in the 

 supply line. See that the open end 

 is at least 1 foot above the water 

 level in the tank. If it is necessary 

 to change the level of the supply 

 line from one row of hutches to 

 another, use a piece of rubber hose 

 to make the connection. 



Determine the correct height for 

 the tank by fastening a rubber hose 

 to the tank outlet and then to the 

 supply pipe. Raise or lower the 

 tank until the valves, or dewdrops, 

 from which the rabbits drink have 

 the proper tension. If there is too 

 much tension or pressure on the 

 valves, the rabbits will not be able 

 to trip them. Under too little 

 tension, the valves will drip. 



The proper height for the water 



valve is 9 inches from the hutch 

 floor for medium and heavy breeds 

 and 7 inches for the smaller breeds. 

 The pipe may be hung on the out- 

 side and at the back of the hutch 

 so no water drips on the rabbits 

 and the hutch floor. An opening 

 in the back of the hutch will per- 

 mit the rabbit to use the valve 

 (fig. 10). 



When hutches are back to back 

 use one pipe for supplying w^ater 

 to both luitches. Use a four-way 

 outlet and short nipples for in- 

 stalling the valves. 



You can install one drinking 

 valve for each hutch by drilling 

 and tapping the supply pipe and 

 screwing the valve into it. 



If you are not equipped to make 

 the plumbing installation, substi- 

 tute a 34-inch rubber hose for the 

 1/2 -inch supply pipe. Cut a hole in 

 tlie hose and screw in the valve. 

 Plastic pipe may be used in a simi- 

 lar manner. If a rubber hose or 

 plastic pipe is used it should be 

 hung on the outside of the hutch 

 to minimize possibilities of dam- 

 age due to chewing or gnawing. 



Check the automatic watering 

 system periodically, especially 

 when you put a rabbit in a hutch 

 that has been unoccupied for sev- 

 eral days. When valves are not 

 used — even for a few^ days — min- 

 erals in the water may cause them 

 to stick. 



Rabbits learn to use the system 

 readily, even young just out of the 

 nest box. 



Nest Boxes 



No one type of nest box is best 

 suited for all conditions, but all 

 should provide seclusion for the 

 doe at kindling and comfort and 

 protection for the young. Nest 

 boxes should be large enough to 

 prevent crowding and small enough 

 to keep the young together. All 

 types should provide good drainage 



