hurry, and it was decided to spend a day in idleness. This fact was turned to 

 account by the sick and ailing, who came to Captain Douglas with their 

 troubles. A good many proved to be maJades imaginaires, and were treated to 

 Livingston Rousers, which the experienced Army Surgeon declares of the 

 highest efificac)' in this class of case. Several of the native servants were 

 noticed during the day sitting in the sun with their coats off, conducting 

 exhaustive investigations into the probable cause, or causes, of a personal dis- 

 comfort from which they had for some time suffered. It may be mentioned in 

 this connection that the Staff of the expedition had recently found it advisable 

 to make their own beds. 



On November 3rd the march was continued up the valley for about two 

 miles, and then up a narrower gully for three more; the latter portion running 

 along an overhanging path but a few feet wide. Then, a loess divide being 

 crossed, our tents were pitched near the small but well-built and prosperous 

 village of Liu-chien-hua. It was estimated that at least one quarter of the 

 terrain passed over that day was of loose sand. The cliffs and hills, too, were 

 very sandy in their composition, and it was only on the highest and most 

 wind-swept ridges that loose sand was not in evidence. Vegetation had been 

 for some time very scarce, and the stunted trees were everywhere half buried 

 in the sand. Nevertheless there was no sign of drought, for every ravine held 

 its stream of fresh, if not always very clear, water. The salt, of which we had 

 seen some fifty donkey-loads in the day, was for distribution amongst the 

 villages on the Yellow River. The altitude of this camping-ground was 

 estimated at 3500 feet. 



Next morning, November 5th, an early start was made with a view to 

 covering the fifteen miles lying between us and Yii-lin Fu in good time. The 

 road proved to be satisfactory almost the whole way, but the sand became 

 markedly more abundant. The sides of the streams were no longer cliffs, but 

 high banks of loose sand sloping sharply to the water's edge. At last Yii-lin 

 was reached, and we gladly took up our quarters in the warm and comfortable 

 accommodation provided by the hospitable officials of the city. 



San-yeh Miao, a Buddhist temple of considerable dimensions, and 

 admirably suited for the purpose, had been placed at our disposal. It com- 

 prised two large courts, one some ten feet higher than the other. Into the 

 former opened several smaller courts, containing the living rooms which had 

 been done up for our reception. The large upper room and side rooms of this 

 court were devoted to images of Buddha with his attendant spirits ; whilst 

 the far end of the lower court was occupied by the usual theatre-stage. One 



IB 



