palatial temple with gold-tiled roof and beautiful grounds is to be seen, built 

 in the face of a precipitous and castle-like mountain. Hua Shan, one of 

 the five sacred peaks of China," famous as representing Buddha's hand. 

 Indeed, several deep chasms, cutting perpendicularly through the massive 

 square-topped peak, seem to suggest the fingers and thumb of a Titanic 

 hand. Numerous Buddhist temples are perched about its summit, and these 

 form places of pilgrimage for the devout, as well as admirable summer resorts 

 for the wealthy people of the plains. At T'ung-kuan Hsien, the Yellow River, 

 after having flowed southward between the provinces of Shansi and Shensi, 

 turns abruptly to the east. All along the road from Hsi-an Fu to this point 

 waterfowl of every description were very abundant, and remarkably tame ; so 

 much so, indeed, that on one occasion Sowerby was able to ride into a small 

 flock, and bag a goose with a cut of his whip. From T'ung-kuan eastward 

 the road lies along deep, and most disagreeable loess gullies. Dust lies on the 

 surface of the road to a depth of a foot or eighteen inches, the depth of the 

 gullies preventing any possibility of its removal by the wind. The result 

 being that in dry weather it is raised in high, choking clouds by every passing 

 vehicle, and in wet it forms a veritable morass. After experience of both wet 

 and dry weather in the district the opinion may be expressed with confidence 

 that this is the very worst road in North China. 



Being, of course, anxious to reach Ho-nan Fu by the date given in the 

 telegram, Sowerby managed to accomplish the last four days" journey — 109 

 miles — in thirty-six hours ; a performance which, considering the state of the 

 roads, speaks well for the endurance of his mount, a typical Manchurian pony 

 of thirteen hands. 



Nothing of any particular interest occurred at either Hankow, or 

 Ho-nan Fu. Some difficulty was experienced in obtaining the carts necessary 

 for the transport of the additional stores at Ho-nan Fu, but eventually 

 arrangements were made, and we left this place on April 13th, and regained 

 Hsi-an Fu on the 24th after an uneventful journey. 



* The five Sacred Peuks of China ore : Hang Shan, in Shnnsi ; Hua Shan, in Shensi ; .*^ung Shan, in Honan ; 

 Heng Shan, in Hunan ; and T'ai Shan, in Sbantun|{. 



43 



