followed most of the day, joins the river close to this village, after forcing its 

 way through a thick layer of rock. At this point too, the Yellow River itself 

 cuts deeply through the thick layer of igneous rock — its course being very 

 tortuous, and the current swift. Immediately on leaving Hsiao-shui-tzu it 

 turns northwards, continuing its way through a series of much contorted hills 

 of igneous and water-formed rock. This day's march was found to be twenty- 

 six-and-half miles. 



The following day Lan-chou Fu was reached after a journey of fifteen 

 miles along dusty roads, lying for the most part over loess and sandstone hills. 

 Three miles from Lan-chou, the road descends into a wide valley through 

 which flows the Yellow River. The country here looked very deserted, the 

 high loess hills on either side of the valley being bare of vegetation, whilst the 

 valley itself presented the appearance of a sandy waste, thickly covered with 

 graves. Notwithstanding the desolate appearance of the place, the travellers 

 were heartily glad to have reached the end of their long overland journey. It 

 was difficult to find quarters, all the inns being wretchedly small and dirty. 

 Visits were made to many places, including a beautiful temple situated a little 

 to the east of the city at Lien-hua-ch'ih (Lotus Flower Pool) ; and eventually 

 the summer residence of a wealthy native family was engaged. In the 

 pavilions of its lovely garden ample room was found for all the members of 

 the expedition, and they settled down to await the arrival of Clark and 

 Sowerby, with the supplies and extra outfit necessary for the intended 

 extension of work along the Tibetan border. 



The city of Lan-chou Fu is of considerable size and importance. It is 

 situated on the right (south) bank of the Huang Ho, at the point where the 

 great high road into Chinese Turkestan crosses that river. Its population has 

 been estimated at half-a-million, several sections having been built on to the 

 western wall to take in and protect the buildings forming an overflow outside 

 the main city. The streets, which at the time of our visit were being 

 macadamized, are narrow; the houses well-built and very closely packed. 

 The walls and gate -towers are in excellent repair, though several salients 

 guarding the western approaches of the city have been allowed to sink into 

 disrepair. The chief industries carried on are the manufacture of waterpipe 

 tobacco, for which Lan-chou is famous all over China, and the curing of furs 

 brought in from the west. Gold and silversmiths and jade-merchants do a 

 good trade, whilst curio shops are very numerous. 



The valley in which Lan-chou is situated is of comparative fertility, due 

 mainly to the supply of water readily obtainable from the Yellow River. For 



(iO 



