THE ROSE GARDEN 



67 



Summer Treatment 



Keep the soil continually cultivated to retain as much moisture 

 as possible; the stirring need not be deep, otherwise roots are injured. 

 A mulch of lawn clippings is beneficial. Each time a new supply is 

 ready the other will have been dried and worked into the soil. After 

 every rain the soil should be loosened. A good syringing of water every 

 day from the start of the season will go a long way toward keeping the 

 insects off. The time for syringing is morning or evening. At midday 

 it is rather injurious to the foHage. All through the Summer watch 

 for suckers; they usually have more leaflets — five to seven, the garden 

 varieties having but three to five. They should not be broken off but 

 cut down to the roots. (See cut) . 



Cutting Roses 



If the Roses are cut properly many varieties will continue to bloom 

 until Autumn. The bud should be cut so that five-leaf foHage is left 

 upon the stem. Refer to the 

 sketch below. If the Rose stem is 

 cut at C there is only a three-leaf 

 remaining upon the stem; such 

 cuts rarely give such good flower 

 stems. Cut at any B there are 

 five-leaves left and flower buds 

 will start growth very soon. Cut 

 at any A other flower stems de- 

 velop slowly, if at all. Cut Roses 

 then to a five-leaf. 



Rose Insects 



The Rose plant louse or aphis 

 is one of the commonest pests; it 

 appears on the young growths and 

 reproduces with great rapidity, 

 soon covering the plants. The tips 

 of branches are stunted and the 

 buds only produce deformed flow- 

 ers. The daily syringe advocated 

 elsewhere will do much to lessen 

 the attacks, for the insects will be 

 washed off the plants. Whale oil 

 soap (one pound to ten gaUons of 

 water), or some reliable nicotine 

 preparation will surely kill them. 



"Showing where to cut a Rose to obtain 



more flowers. See paragraph above 



"Cutting Roses" 



