Growing and Training Cordon and Espalier 

 Fruit Trees 



[Growing fruit trees in these shapes is an endless source of delight to the 



gardener and we recommend giving the art a trial if only commenced with 



a few trees, their first cost being but a trifle and the reward great.] 



Cordons and Espaliers are not difficult to train and, by following 

 the diagrams shown on opposite page, nicely grown specimens can 

 soon be obtained. Sometimes a young tree can be bent down to form 

 a single cordon, thereby saving a season's growth, but a double cordon 

 would have to be formed the first year as shown in the diagram. 



A single galvanized wire, anchored firmly at each end, and drawn 

 tight, standing one foot above the ground, is necessary to support 

 the cordon, the height being a matter of choice, as the tree can be 

 started at any height desired. Should the young tree make very 

 strong growths these should be shortened back in Spring and care- 

 fully watched and tied to ensure a straight branch when new growth 

 commences. 



All side growth should be pinched back in June or July, leaving 

 three or four leaves; these will form the fruiting spurs later. The 

 spurs should not be allowed to crowd or weak growth will result. 

 The trees can be allowed to reach each other and are easily kept within 

 a restricted space. They come into bearing early and produce fine fruit. 



An espalier is an amplified cordon, the treatment being identical 

 in the first stage. Branches at equal distances up the stem look 

 best, and three good growths must be encouraged at the first pruning, 

 two for lateral branches, and one for a continuation of the main stem; 

 these should be tied and kept straight, as the future appearance of 

 the tree depends upon it. 



The third year spurs will begin to form on the lowest branches, 

 these should be treated the same as those on the cordons. Fine fruit 

 will reward the labor bestowed upon them. 



Upright or obhque cordons consist of a single stem, allowed to 

 grow slowly by cutting back a portion of the matured growth each 

 year in order to encourage the formation of fruiting spurs at close 

 intervals all up the stem. The side shoots should be treated same 

 as for single or double horizontal cordons, but a straight leading shoot 

 must always be assured for the continual development of the tree. 



These may be planted two feet apart, against a fence, building, 

 or wall, or to cover an arch in the fruit garden. 



Espahers may be trained on ordinary garden stakes, 4 to 5 ft. high, 

 placed one foot apart; or, iron rods may be used, or an ordinary piece 

 of wire fence, in fact any material that will keep the young growths in 

 the. proper position during training. 



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