THE ORNAMENTAL PLANTS — SHRUBS 291 



be tilled between the shrubs, either by horse tools or by hoes and 

 rakes. If the place looks bare, seeds of quick-growing flowers 

 may be scattered about the edges of the mass, or herbaceous 

 perennials may be used. 



The larger shrubs, as Hlacs and syringas, may be set about 

 4 feet apart; but the smaller ones should be set about 2 feet 

 apart if it is desired to secure an immediate effect. If after a 

 few years the mass becomes too crowded, some of the specimens 

 may be removed (p. 76). 



Throw the shrubs into an irregular plantation, not in rows, 

 and make the inner edge of the mass more or less undulating 

 and broken. 



It is a good practice to mulch the plantation each fall with 

 light manure, leafmold, or other material. Even though the 

 shrubs are perfectly hardy, this mulch greatly improves the 

 land and promotes growth. After the shrub borders have 

 become two or three years old, the drifting leaves of fall will be 

 caught therein and \vill be held as a mulch (p. 82). 



When the shrubs are first planted, they are headed back one 

 half or more (Fig. 45) ; but after they are established they are 

 not to be sheared, but allowed to take their own way, and after 

 a few years the outermost ones will droop and meet the green- 

 sward (pp. 25, 26). 



Many rapid-growing trees may be utilized as shrubs by cut- 

 ting them off near the ground every year, or every other year, 

 and allowing young shoots to grow. Basswood, black ash, 

 some of the maples, tuHp tree, mulberry, ailanthus, paulownia, 

 magnolias, Acer cmnpestre, and others may be treated in this 

 way (Fig. 50). 



Nearly all shrul^s bloom in spring or early summer. If 

 kinds blooming late in summer or in fall are desired, they may 

 be looked for in baccharis, caryopteris, cephalanthus, clethra, 

 hamamelis, hibiscus, hydrangea, hypericum, lespedeza, rhus 

 (R. Cotinus), Sambucus Canadensis in midsummer, tamarisk. 



