94 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 



low, perched upon the steep hills, or buried in the 

 deep valleys — but still tents and canvas every- 

 where and any where, their numbers defying calcula- 

 tion, their structure and position all analysis. There 

 existed neither wells nor ponds within a very consider- 

 able distance ; and what struck me as most singular, 

 being aware that the Spaniards had a mission here, 

 there was no sign of a church. I subsequently ascer- 

 tained that the site of the Mission of Dolores, about 

 five miles distant, had been preferred by the Spaniards, 

 and that divine service was performed there still. 



" As I proceeded along the road leading into the 

 principal street of the city, I was uncomfortably re- 

 minded that it would soon become necessary for me to 

 select a place where I could procure refreshment ; 

 and in connexion with this necessity, arose another 

 consideration no less important, namely, where I should 

 lodge ? There was no other mode of solving the diffi- 

 culty, save by an exploration of the localities ; accord- 

 ingly, I kept these objects in view, whilst I also grati- 

 fied my curiosity by continuing my perambulations. 



" In this same road, but nearer to the entrance of 

 the main street than I should say was, under any cir- 

 cumstances, altogether pleasant, stood the correl of the 

 Washington Market, being a spacious area of ground, 

 inclosed with stakes, over which were stretched raw 

 hides. Owing to the large number of cattle slaugh- 

 tered here for the use of the inhabitants, the odor 

 from this place was insufferable, and I quickened my 

 pace until my olfactory organs became sensible of a 

 purer atmosphere. 



" I turned into the principal street, and soon came 

 up to the market itself, which is a wooden house, about 

 thirty feet square, kept by an American. To my 



