WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA 57 



Nothing in vegetable nature can be conceived 

 more charming, grand, and luxuriant. 



How the heart rejoices in viewing this beautiful 

 landscape! when the sky is serene, the air cool, 

 and the sun just sunk behind the mountain's top. 



The Hayawa-tree perfumes the woods around; 

 pairs of Scarlet Aras are continually crossing the 

 river. The Maam sends forth its plaintive note, 

 the Wren chants its evening song. The Caprimul- 

 gus wheels in busy flight around the canoe, while 

 ''Whip-poor- Will" sits on the broken stump near 

 the water's edge, complaining as the shades of 

 night set in. 



A little before you pass the last of these rapids 

 two immense rocks appear, nearly on the summit 

 of one of the many hills which form this far-ex- 

 tending range, where it begins to fall off grad- 

 ually to the south. 



They look like two ancient stately towers of 

 some Gothic potentate, rearing their heads above 

 the surrounding trees. What with their situation 

 and their shai^e together, they strike the beholder 

 with an idea of antiquated grandeur which he will 

 never forget. He may travel far and near and see 

 nothing like them. On looking at them through a 

 glass, the summit of the southern one appeared 

 crowned with bushes. The one to the north was 

 .quite bare. The Indians have it from their an- 

 cestors that they are the abode of an evil genius, 

 and they pass in the river below with a reverential 

 awe. 



In about seven hours from these stupendous 

 sons of the hill, you leave the Essequibo, and enter 

 the river Apourapoura, which falls into it from the 



