WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA 229 



In two days after this we got to the first falls 

 in the Essequibo. There was a superb barrier of 

 rocks quite across the river. In the rainy season 

 these rocks are for the most part under water; 

 but it being now dry weather, we had a fine view 

 of them, while the water from the river above 

 them rushed through the different openings in 

 majestic grandeur. Here, on a little hill, jutting 

 out into the river, stands the house of Mrs. 

 Peterson, the last house of people of colour up 

 this river; I hired a negro from her, and a col- 

 oured man, who pretended that they knew the 

 haunts of the cayman, and understood everything 

 about taking him. We were a day in passing 

 these falls and rapids, celebrated for the Pacou, 

 the richest and most delicious fish in Guiana. 

 The coloured man was now in his element; he 

 stood in the head of the canoe, and with his bow 

 and arrow shot the pacou as they were swimming 

 in the stream. The arrow had scarcely left the 

 bow before he had plunged headlong into the 

 river, and seized the fish as it was struggling with 

 it. He dived and swam like an otter, and rarely 

 missed the fish he aimed at. 



Did my pen, gentle reader, possess descriptive 

 powers, I would here give thee an idea of the 

 enchanting scenery of the Essequibo ; but that not 

 being the case, thou must be contented with a 

 moderate and well-intended attempt. 



Nothing could be more lovely than the appear- 

 ance of the forest on each side of this noble river. 

 Hills rose on hills in fine gradation, all covered 

 with trees of gigantic height and size. Here their 

 leaves were of a lively purple, and there of the 



