248 WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA 



It was much more perilous to descend than to 

 ascend the falls in the Essequibo. 



The place we had to pass had proved fatal to 

 four Indians about a month before. The water 

 foamed, and dashed and boiled, amongst the 

 steep and craggy rocks, and seemed to warn us 

 to be careful how we ventured there. 



I was for all hands to get out of the canoe, and 

 then after lashing a long rope ahead and astern, 

 we might have climbed from rock to rock, and 

 tempered her in her passage down, and our get- 

 ting out would have lightened her much. But the 

 negro who had joined us at Mrs. Peterson's said 

 he was sure it would be safer to stay in the 

 canoe while she went down the fall. I was loath 

 to give way to him ; but I did so this time against 

 my better judgment, as he assured me that he was 

 accustomed to pass and repass these falls. 



Accordingly we determined to push down: I 

 was at the helm, the rest at their paddles. But 

 before we got half way through, the rushing 

 waters deprived the canoe of all power of steer- 

 age, and she became the sport of the torrent ; in a 

 second she was half full of water, and I cannot 

 comprehend to this day why she did not go down ; 

 luckily the people exerted themselves to the ut- 

 most, — she got headway, and they pulled through 

 the whirlpool ; I being quite in the stern of the 

 canoe, part of a wave struck me, and nearly 

 knocked me overboard. 



We now paddled to some rocks at a distance, 

 got out, unloaded the canoe, and dried the cargo in 

 the sun, which was very hot and powerful. Had 



