WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA 287 



which, according to old writers, has five rivers; 

 viz., Acheron, Phlegethon, Cocytus, Styx, and 

 Lethe. 



In this island I found the Red Start, described 

 in Wilson's ''Ornithology of the United States/' 

 I wished to learn whether any of these birds re- 

 main the whole year in Antigua, and breed there ; 

 or whether they all leave it for the north when the 

 sun comes out of the southern hemisphere; but, 

 upon inquiry, I could get no information what- 

 ever. 



After passing a dull week here, I sailed for 

 Guadaloupe, whose bold and cloud-capped moun- 

 tains have a grand appearance as you approach 

 the island. Basseterre, the capital, is a neat 

 town, with a handsome public walk in the middle 

 of it, well shaded by a row of fine tamarind trees 

 on each side. Behind the town. La Souffriere 

 raises its high romantic summit; and on a clear 

 day, you may see the volcanic smoke which issues 

 from it. 



Nearly midway, betwixt Guadaloupe and Do- 

 minica, you descry the Saintes. Though high, 

 and bold, and rocky, they have still a diminutive 

 appearance when compared with their two gigan- 

 tic neighbours. You just see Marigalante to 

 windward of them, some leagues off, about a yard 

 high in the horizon. 



Dominica is majestic in high and rugged moun- 

 tains. As you sail along it, you cannot help ad- 

 miring its beautiful coffee plantations, in places 

 so abrupt and steep, that you would pronounce 

 them almost inaccessible. Roseau, the capital, is 

 but a small town, and has nothing attractive ex- 



