138 A YEAR OF COSTA RICAN NATURAL HISTORY 



So far as we could see from the tracks in the sand — and they 

 lasted surprisingly long — he did not return past our tent. 

 How he went back we have no idea. To follow that trail 

 was one of the things we were eager to do, at least far enough 

 to see into what sort of country it led. Certainly there 

 must be some green and attractive pastures or the cattle 

 and horses would not wander there as they seem to do. But 

 for us this trail will be forever shrouded in mystery, for we 

 could not follow it through the thick mist nor would we 

 have been able to see anything if we had attempted it. 



About eleven o'clock we were pleased to hear the thump- 

 ing of hoofs as our guide and horses approached the tent — 

 pleased because we had supplies for two days only and it 

 was impossible not to speculate on the uncomfortable situ- 

 ation we should be in if for any reason the guide did not re- 

 turn. However, he came, and almost on time, and as soon 

 as he had eaten something we began to pack up. It did 

 not take long to saddle our riding horses and arrange the 

 full saddlebags and blanket rolls. Then we took down the 

 cozy little tent, stuffed it into its coffee sack, loaded the 

 packhorse and started home. During most of this per- 

 formance it rained more or less heavily. P. and I had on 

 raincoats and as soon as the tent was down — the last thing 

 I could help with — I mounted my horse so that my poncho 

 would cover the saddlebags containing the cameras and 

 plates. The guide also had a rubber coat which he did not 

 put on but left carefully spread out over his saddle to keep 

 that dry. He worked with us for an hour in the hard rain, 

 frequently remarking "Mucha agua"; then he rode for an 

 hour longer through the mist and rain, still unprotected. 

 Finally he shivered, said "Mucho frio" and put on his rain- 

 coat! By that time he looked well drenched and we were 

 much mystified by his proceeding. 



From the level crater floor we first climbed steeply up the 



