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Inserting Capped Qiieeii-Cclls — 

 Hcepiiig rertiliy.cd <lHeciis. 



Written /or the Aineiicnn Bee Journal 



Query 681.— 1, How sooa after removing- a 

 queen l'n>in a luliinv of bees, will it be safe to 

 Insert a eappeil <incen-ccll '/ 2. Can fertilized 

 quoons be kept safely a month or two (not in 

 nuclei) in a room '/ ;!. If so, how; and at what 

 temperature should the room be kept V— Ohio. 



1. Twenty-four hours. 3. No.— H. D. 

 Cutting. 



1. I think that depends a little upon the 

 season. 3. I do not know. — Eugene Secok. 



1. I do not know. 3. They can probably 

 be so kept — but why; It is more than 

 likely that they would be quite worthless 

 at the end of that time.— C. H. Dibbern. 



1. Everything depends upon the condi- 

 tion of the hive and the honey-flow. 3. It 

 is not the way to keep them. 3. Try it,and 

 then you will know.— James Heddon. 



1. Twenty -four hours, where no cell-pro- 

 tectors are used ; with the protectors, at 

 once. 3. Not without injuriuH' the future 

 usefulness of the queen. — ij. M. Doolittle. 



1. Much depends upon circumstances. I 

 would not risk it in less time than 34 hours, 

 and a queen-cell is never absolutely safe. 

 8. I think not.— M. Mauin. 



1. In about two days, with frequent ex- 

 ceptions. 3 and 3. Yes, in a well-protected 

 queen-cage, in an even temperature of 60 

 to 70 degrees. — R. L. Taylor. 



1. I find that I obtain the best success 48 

 hours after. 3. I have kept some over two 

 months in a cage, having one dozen or so 

 of bees with the queen. 3. Not under 60 

 degrees. — P. L. ViiULON. 



1. When they find out that they are 

 queenless — may be 34 hours, or so. 3. I 

 think that they have been so kept. 3. Give 

 them plenty of food and ivatcr. The tem- 

 perature of ordinary living-rooms in sum- 

 mer will do. — C. C. Mii.i.EK. 



1. At once. 3. Yes, if she is accompanied 

 by a sufficient number of bees, and the 

 room is of proper temperature. I keep 

 them so for five mouths. 3. The room 

 should be dark, and the temperature 45 to 

 50 degrees. — A. B. Mason. 



If the bees have no eggs or larvae to rear 

 a queen from, you can insert a queen-cell 

 immediately ; but if otherwise, not until 

 they have started queen-cells on their own 

 account. 2. I have never tried it. — Mrs. L. 

 Hakrison. 



1. No one can tell, as colonies differ so 

 much in characteristics. 3. I do not think 

 that they can. They ought to be kept in 

 nuclei, to insure safety. — J. E. Pond. 



1. Put Doolittle's wire protector on the 

 cell, and insert it before closing the hive. 

 3. Yes, but do not do it. Stop useless ex- 

 periments that have already been gone over 

 and over again, and get to work. — J. M. 

 Shuck. 



1. During a good honey-flow, it is safe at 

 any time. In the absence of a honey-flow, 

 it is never safe. 3. If queens coidd be 

 safely kept a month or two, in a room, I am 

 sure that it would not be wise to do so. — G-. 

 L. Tinker. 



From 12 to 24 hours. You could keep 

 them in cages with a few escort bees, pro- 

 vided you can keep them in a temperature 

 of from 85 to 90 degrees; but I am inclined 

 to think that their fecundity might be 

 somewhat impaired after such confinement. 

 — J. M. Hambaugu. 



1. Twenty-four hours— sometimes a little 

 less. 3. We would hardly advise any one 

 to try it; though wo have known a queen 

 with 10 or 13 bees to be kept near the 

 stove, in a house, tor about a mouth. They 

 want a warm place. Feed thick sugar 

 syrup in small quantity. — Dauant &■ Son. 



1. Often, at once. 3. Twenty-four hours is 

 enough. 3. Certainly, they are sent in the 

 mails where they are en route for 40 days. 

 They would certainly be better in quiet. 3. 

 In a Benton cage, as sent from Enrope. No 

 special room or heat need be provided.— A. 

 J. Cook. 



1. By securely attaching the cell to a 

 centre comb, and covering it with a cup- 

 shaped wire-cloth cage, well imbedded into 

 the comb, you can give the cell when you 

 remove the queen. 3. With safety 10 to 

 15 days; but queens are injured by long 

 confinement. 3. Seventy to 80 degrees- 

 a low temperature might do for a short 

 confinement.— J. P. H. Brown. 



1. Not less time than 34 hours; and if no 

 risk is to be taken at all, not until the ex- 

 piration of four days. 3. Yes, they can be 

 kept for a month, or longer, but not 

 " safely." I would not give much for a 

 queen that had been confined in that way, 

 in the laying season. 3. Cage the queen in 

 a properly-provisioned cage, with about 15 

 workers to care for her. Change the queen 

 to a newly-provisioned cage once in 10 or 

 14 days, giving her a fresh set of nursing- 

 bees at each change. The temperature 

 should range from 70 to 80 degrees. Queens 

 might be kept iu the winter months with- 

 out injury in this way.— G. W. Demaree. 



Putting in Foundation to Oct 

 Well-Filled Sections. 



Written for the American Bee Journal 



Query 685.— How should foundation be 

 used in sections, so that the bees will attach 

 the comb to the sides and ends, and thus 

 secure well-flUed sections ?— Maumee. 



Fill the sections with foundation. — J. M. 

 Hambaugh. 

 By using a full sheet of the foundation. — 



P. L. VlAI-LON. 



Fill the section to within J^ of an inch of 

 the bottom.— Dadant & Son. 



Fill the section full, less ^g of an inch at 

 the bottom.— G. M. Doolittle. 



Fill the sections full of foundation, and 

 the bees will take care of the rest.^^. E. 

 POND.j ' C -J CTTJ CZD TJ CTD 



Do not cut the foundation too small. The 

 strength of the colony and honey-flow has 

 much to do with it.— H. D. Cutting. 



Fill the section so full of foundation that 

 a bee can barely get around the edges be 

 tween it and the inside of the section. — 

 Eugene Secor. 



Use full sheets, but the season has more 

 to do with poorly -filled sections than any 

 single cause.— Mrs. L. Harrison. 



I prefer to use it just as large as possible, 

 and not have it touch on the sides or bot- 

 tom.— A. J. Cook. 



Use it so large as to reach the sides of the 

 sections within 1-16 of an inch, and within 

 '4 of an inch of the bottom. — R. L. Taylor. 



Make it large enough to leave only ,V of 

 an inch space at the sides, and even then 

 bees may gnaw it away, unless somewhat 

 crowded for room.— C. C. Miller. 



Full sheets should be used, but even then 

 they will not be attached as desired, un- 

 less the flow of surplus honey demands it. — 

 A. B. Mason. 



I use only .starters, and get the combs at- 

 tached to the sides, but not always to tha 

 bottoms of the sections. — M. Maiiin. 



I cut the pieces of foundation so that they 

 will hang e/osc/j/ to the ends of the sec- 

 tions, and have no trouble with the bees 

 not attaching the combs securely to the 

 ends. — J. P. II. BiiOWN. 



It is not a question how foundation 

 should be fastened, nor how much of it 

 should bo used, in the matter of securing 

 well-fllled sections. — (i. L. Tinker. 



There is no way to do that practically, by 

 manipulating the foundation. If you fill 

 the sections full, you are liable to have 

 bulged comlis. If you do not fill them fuU, 

 as you should not do, whether the sections 

 are solidly filled or not will depend upon 

 the season, and how you manipulate your 

 bees and surplus receptacles. — James Hed- 

 don. 



Echo, "how*" A V-shaped starter with 

 the broad edge extending clear across the 

 under side of the top of the section, a good 

 strong colony of bees, and, more important 

 than all else, a really good flow of nectar, 

 will give nicely-filled sections every time, 

 if the apiarist has properly adjusted the 

 hives and fixtures. — G. W. Demaree. 



The foundation should be cut the exact 

 size of the sections; about '4 -inch will be 

 used up to fasten it in, which will leave it 

 just right. It will stretch enough to touch 

 the bottom, and the bees will generally fiU 

 such sections so that it is hard to tell which 

 was top or bottom, if other conditions are 

 right. — C. H. Dibbern. 



If conditions are right, four different in- 

 versions will do it. If conditions are not 

 right, nothing will do it. Open-sided sec- 

 tions have been prescribed for this trouble, 

 but the prescription is not effective. First- 

 class product rarely shows sections entirely 

 full. To compel the filling of all the spaces 

 is " puttering " in the hive, and is expen- 

 sive as to time and honey.— J. M. Shuck. 



Oooliltle on <(ueen-Reai-ing. 



Queens can be reared in the upper stories 

 of hives used for extracted honey, where a 

 queen-excluding honey -board is used, which 

 are as good, if not superior, to Queens 

 reared by any other process ; and that, too, 

 while the old Queen is doing duty below, 

 just the same as though Queens were not 

 being reared above. This is a fact, though 

 it is not generally known. 



If you desu'e to know how this can be 

 done — how to have Queens fertilized in up- 

 per stories, while the old Queen is laying 

 below— how you may safely introduce any 

 Queen, at any time of the year when bees 

 cay fly— all about the different races of 

 bees— all about shipping Queens, queen- 

 cages, candy for queen-cages, etc. — aU 

 about forming nuclei, multiplying or unit- 

 ing bees, or weak colonies, etc. ; or, in fact 

 everything about the queen-business which 

 you may want to know, send for " Doolit- 

 tle's Scientific Queen-Rearing;" a book of 

 170 pages, which is nicely bound in cloth, 

 and as interesting as any story. Price, 

 *1.00. 



An edition in strong paper covers is is- 

 sued for premiums. It will be mailed as a 

 present to any one who wiU send us two 

 new subscribers to either the Bee Journal 

 or the Illustrated Home Journal. 



