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Miikin;; Wooden Seimrators — 

 The Kind of Wood. 



Written for the American Bee Journal 



Query 686.— I wish to use wooden sepai'ii- 

 toi-s in my 'I'-supers. I find thiit some numu- 

 faeturers saw thcin 1-1(> of an inch thick, and 

 others slice tliem 1-20 of an inch thiclc. 1. Are 

 tile sliced as good us tlie sawed ones. 'Z, If not, 

 are they at all satisfactory ? 3. Of what liind 

 of wood is it protltable to malie separators V — 

 Iowa. 



I prefer tin separators. — G. M. Doolittle. 



1. I have never used the sliced separa- 

 tors. 'S. Bassvvood. — J. M. Hamraugh. 



I have had no experience with wooden 

 separators. — A. B. Mason. 



Wooden separators did not prove satis- 

 factory with me, and now I use only the 

 tin. — P. L. ViAiLON. 



1. The sliced ones are more liable to 

 warp then the sawed ones. 3. Pine and 

 basswood are both good. — Mks. L. Harki- 

 SON. 



I have no experience with separators, 

 and have no intention of using them. I can 

 crate my honey without their use. — M. 

 Mahin. 



1. The sawed ones are the best — they do 

 not warp as much as the sliced ones. 3. 

 Poplar, basswood and pine make good sep- 

 arators — J. P. H. Brown. 



1. The thinner, the better, if they do not 

 warp. 2. I use tin. 3. I doubt if it is 

 profitable to make them of wood; but if 

 theaper than tin, I should use the cheapest 

 wood I could get, that would stay put. — 

 Eugene Secok. 



1. I tftinTcthat the 1-16-inch, sawed sep- 

 arators are the best. 3. They should be 

 made of reasonably hard wood, or the bees 

 will gnaw them. I have never used sliced 

 separators. — C. H. Dibbebn. 



1. I have used sliced ones that seemed 

 entirely satisfactory. 3. I never made any, 

 and at the low prices offered, I think that it 

 is more profitable to buy them. — C. C. 

 Miller. 



1 and 2. If properly handled, I do not 

 think that there would be much difference. 

 3. The bees "chew up" basswood, to some 

 extent. Poplar woiild be better. — R. L. 

 Taylor. 



1. Yes ; any separator is good, that will 

 act as such; the thinner, the better. 3. 

 Any wood that can be made thin enough, 

 without splitting or warping in use. —J. E. 

 Pond. 



1. The sawed ones are the best. Sliced 

 ones are good, if dried in a press ; if not, 

 they are crooked, unsatisfactory things. 3. 

 "White poplar is good — good enough.-^. M. 

 Shuck. 



1. I am using each kind, but I find that 

 the sawed separators are much better than 

 the sliced ones. In slicing, it breaks the 

 grain, and the bees tear it down on the 

 face of the section. 2. The sliced separa- 

 tor will answer, but it is not as good as 

 those sawed smooth. 3. Whitewood is the 

 best that I have used. — H, D. Cutting. 



1. No; sliced separators are not as good 

 as sawed ones, if of a suitable thickness. 

 Mine are sawed 14 to the inch. They may 

 be used for many years, and out-last tin. 2. 

 Sliced separators will bulge, warp and get 

 out of shape, and can frequently be used 

 but once. They cannot be used with open- 

 side sections. 3. The yellow poplar, or 

 whitewood, is the best wood to make them 

 of.— G. L. Tinker. 



1. The " sliced " separators are superior 

 to the sawed ones, when the work is prop- 

 erly done. All wooden separators that I 

 have handled, are objectionable, because 

 they require nice care andhandling to keeji 

 them from warping out of all shape. Tin 

 is free from these olijcctions. 3. This is a 

 qtiestion that concerns the manufacturer 

 more than the consumer. Linden timlier 

 furnishes the best that I have seen, though 

 not as fancy in appearance as white poplar. 

 — G. W. Demaree. 



1 . The Tsuper is a good surplus recepta- 

 cle, especially for the use of wooden sep- 

 arators, and whether the sliced or the 

 shaved are the best, depends upon the 

 workmanship. A good sliced separator is 

 better than a poorly shaved one. 2. Yes; 

 sliced separators are perfectly satisfactory, 

 and all the better for being thinner. I 

 have tried all kinds of separators, and 

 wooden ones, from 1-32 to a bee-space in 

 thickness, and taking cost and everything 

 into consideration, I say they should be 

 about 1-30 of an inch thick, and made of 

 first-class whitewood or poplar. — James 

 Heddon. 



Heat in Hives with Larvae and 

 Sealed Brood. 



Written for the American Bee Journal 



Query 687.— 1. Docs it require as much 

 heat for larvse and sealed brood, as for eggs ? 

 That is, when a queen has laid as many eggs 

 as the colony can keep at the proper tempera- 

 ture, must she stop laying, or can some of the 

 bees be spared as soon as tbeeggs are hatched, 

 to cover freshly laid eggs ? 2. Do larva; or 

 sealed brood add any heat to the colony ?— 

 Pennsylvania. 



At present, I do not know. — H.D. Cutting. 



1. Perhaps not. 8. A little, perhaps. — 

 M. Mahin. 



1. I think so. 2. Certainly some,though, 

 practically, none. — A. J. Cook. 



1. No. 2. Yes. The process of develop- 

 ment in animal life produces heat. — A. B. 

 Mason. 



1. Probably not. 2. Wherever there is 

 life, there is heat. — Mrs. L. Harrison. 



I have not experimented on this line, and 

 can only guess; and, that, you can do as 

 well.— C. H. DiBBERN. 



This is theoretical with me, but I should 

 say: 1. Yes. 2. Yes; but so little that it 

 is of no consequence. — Eugene Secor. 



Sealed brood requires less heat than 

 larvEe or eggs, the latter requiring from 90 

 to 96 degrees to perfect them. — G. M. Doo- 

 little. 



1. I believe about six of one, and one- 

 half dozen of the other. 2. In about the 

 same ratio that the eggs do, under a setting 

 hen. — J. M. Hambaugii. 



1. It requires more heat for larvae and 

 sealed brood, as eggs will retain their vital- 

 ity at a much lower temperature than 

 larvffi. 2. No; they require heat. — P. L. 



VlALLON. 



1. It requires a little more heat forlarviP 

 than for eggs. 8. LarvEe and sealed brood 

 also add some heat to the colony. — J. P. H. 

 Brown. 



1. I would rather Prof. Cook would an- 

 swer for me. 2. I suppose that larvae or 

 pupae, or anything else that eats, evolves 

 some heat.— James Heddon. 



1. I do not know. Bees in a hive are not 

 practically useful unless there are enough 

 to cover most of the brood-combs in early 

 spring. 2. I do not know.— J. M. Shucjc. 



1. It depends altogether upon the outside 

 temperature; but it is evident that the 



living larva develops heat to a certain ex- 

 tent, and, therefore, adds a little to the 

 colony's heat.— Da])ant & Son. 



Where there is life, there is heat; so the 

 larva? and scaled ln'ood contribute some 

 heat to the colony, but it is not great 

 enough to mature .sealed brood without the 

 presence of the l)ees, at ordinary summer 

 temperatures. — (x. L. Tinker. 



1. I do not known, but I am inclined to 

 the opinion that more bees are needed to 

 cover and hatch nut a square foot of comb 

 tilled with eggs, than to keep the larvae 

 warm enough in the same amount of comb. 

 — C. C. Miller. 



1. Egg-laying and brood-rearing are con- 

 stantly going forward. The bees will take 

 care of the whole matter, if left alone. 3. 

 Yes, to some extent; but they must Ije kept 

 warm, else they die, and then no warmth 

 can come from them. What funny ques- 

 tions ! — J. E. Pond. 



1 . The only experience I have in the mat- 

 ter of the query, has been obtained by 

 shipping and receiving eggs, larvae and 

 sealed brood by mail. The eggs seem to 

 stand the least exposure of all, while the 

 sealed brood will stand the most. 2. In 

 my experince, there is animal heat in a 

 marked degree in sealed brood. Some 

 years ago, my apiary was raided by 

 thieves, and comVjs of brood were scattered 

 on the ground ; there was a hard frost that 

 morning, and some of the combs of brood 

 were white with frost, yet nearly all the 

 sealed brood hatched.— G. W. Demaree. 



1. Bees do not hatch the eggs by "sit- 

 ting" on them, but by the heat generated 

 by their bodies, and confined by the walls 

 of the hive in warm weather, and by the 

 "crust" of the cluster in cool weather, and 

 all parts of such warmed space are kept at 

 the same temperature as nearly as it is 

 possible, for the bees do it so that a given 

 piece of comb is at the same temperature 

 whether it contains eggs, larvae or sealed 

 brood. 2. It requires much less flame to 

 keep up the temperature of an incubator 

 containing eggs in which are half-developed 

 live chickens, than one containing fresh 

 eggs. The chicks are generating heat, and 

 are " adding heat " to the incubator in per- 

 haps a negative sort of a way. Without 

 question, it is the same with brood. A 

 colony could keep at the desired tempera- 

 ture, a larger space, if it contained nearly 

 mature brood, than if it contained only 

 ■R. L. Taylor. 



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