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277 



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Bce-Spafc Between Sections 

 W^iien Tiering-Up. 



Written /or the American Bee Journal 



Query 703.— Why is it necessary to have a 

 bee-space between tne sections iu tiering uij?— 

 Illinois. 



It is desirable. — A. J. Cook. 



It is not necessary. — Dad ant & Son. 



It keeps them from being propolized. — A. 

 B. Mason. 



To prevent propolis on the sections, and 

 killing bees.— C. C. Milleh. 



It is not necessary, but it is more conven- 

 ient to have the spaces. — G. L. Tinker. 



Perhaps by having a bee space, the upper 

 tier will have combs better joined to the 

 bottoms of the sections. — M. M.\niN. 



It is more convenient, keeps the sections 

 freer from propolis, and prevents the crush- 

 ing of bees. — R. L. Taylor. 



To faclitate the passage of the bees, and 

 to prevent them from propolizing the sec- 

 tions. — Mrs. L. Harrison. 



So that the bees will not glue the whole 

 thing together; and to prevent killing bees 

 in manipulation. — G. M. Doolittle. 



A " bee-space " between the sections is 

 not absolutely essential; but a bee-passage 

 way is necessary for the bees to pass from 

 one tier to the other. — J. P. H. Brown. 



To prevent the bees from gluing the sec- 

 tions together, and to give free circulation 

 of bees, etc., to all parts of the sections. — 

 J. M. Hambaugh. 



I do not know that it is, but / always do, 

 because I like the plan. I can tier up faster, 

 because I do not have to smoke the bees so 

 much to drive them out of the way. — 

 Eugene Secor. 



I do not see any necessity, but perhaps I 

 do not understand the question. I always 

 put the sections on top of each other, with- 

 out a space, and I suppose that is the rule. 

 —J. E. Pond. 



Just try tiering up awhile, and you will 

 find out ! Bees have a faculty of getting in 

 the way, and if no bee space is arranged, 

 many bees would be crushed, even with the 

 most careful haudling. — C. H. Dibbern. 



In my yard last season I had about 40 

 hives with a bee-space above or between 

 the cases, and 20 with no space, the slats 

 in the upper case resting ou the lower sec- 

 tions, and I could see no difference in the 

 honey. You can work faster and kill no 

 bees, if you have a beespace of 5-16 of an 

 inch. — H. D. Cutting. 



So that the supers may be easier handled. 

 A slatted honey-board over the frames 

 will be fastened to the frames, but the 

 super with a bee-space between it and the 

 honey-board, will not be fastened, except 

 with a little propolis around the edges, 

 where the parts touch. I like all supers to 

 have a bee-space above and below the sec- 

 tions, so that when removed from the hive, 

 it may be put upon a board without crush- 

 ing bees, and made secure from robbers.- 

 J. M. SnccK. 



I can see in practical work as well as in 

 theory, a great many reasons why there 

 should be a bee-space between all the 

 departments of the hive when tiering up. 

 If there was no bee-space, hundreds of 

 bees would be sma,shed every time a sec- 

 tion-case was placed on a hive; and if it 

 was possible to smoke all the bees out of 

 the way, so as not to kill any of them, the 



bees would glue the bottoms of the section- 

 cases fast to the toiis of the brood-frames, 

 or whatever it was made to rest on, if no 

 bee-space intervened. It will not do to 

 talk about doing away with the bee-space. 

 — G. W. Demaree. 



It is not absolutely necessary to have a 

 bee-space between the sections in tiering 

 up; however, tliere are slight objections to 

 having the sections rest upou each i>ther. 

 Some of them may be enumerated even iu 

 the short space allowed iu this department. 

 We just now call to mind — glue, stings, 

 mashed bees, ann<jyance, bottoms of sec- 

 tions half pulled off— and a few other little 

 things like that. The bee-space will save 

 all this, and about three-fourths of the 

 time which would be expended in manipu- 

 lating the hives; liut if you are keeping 

 bees for the fun of it, never mind about the 

 time and annoyance.— James Heddon. 



It is desirable, if not absolutely essential, 

 and prevents the destruction of bees and 

 the deposit of propolis there.— The Editor. 



Distance Hives Should be from 

 the Cellar Bottom. 



Written for the American Bee Journal 



Query 704.— How far from the ground 

 should the hives be placed in a dry cellar, 

 when wintering bees V— Minnesota. 



About one foot. — G. L. Tinker. 



From one to two feet. — J. P. H. Brown. 



Ten or twelve inches. — R. L. Taylor. 



Perhaps twelve inches is far enough. — M. 

 Mahin. 



Prom six to ten inches.— Mrs. L. Har- 

 rison. 



Eighteen inches to two feet. — J. M. Ham- 

 baugh. 



Not nearer than five or six inches. — J. E. 

 Pond. 



A foot or two; but we have wintered 

 bees fairly in hives not over six inches 

 from the ground. — Dadant & Son. 



Four inches, or just so that the air can 

 circulate well beneath.- A. J. Cook. 



In my cellar the bottom tier is six inches 

 from the floor to the entrance, four tiers 

 high. — H. D. Cutting. 



As a matter of convenience, mine are 

 about four inches. More, I think, would be 

 better.— C. C. Miller. 



I raise the lowest tier of hives nine inches 

 from the bottom. — G. M. Doolittle. 



I presume about 13 inches would be safe, 

 but my experience with cellar- wintering of 

 bees is limited, and entirely experimental. 

 — G. W. Demaree. 



I do not know ; but the lowest tier of 

 mine is 8 inches from the ground, and the 

 top tier about 6 feet, — A. B. Mason. 



I doubt if any arliitrary rule can be laid 

 down. It depends upon the cellar. I place 

 mine about a foot from the bottom, but I 

 do not know that it is necessary. — Eugene 

 Secor. 



High enough so that the temperature of 

 the atmosphere in which the hive stands, 

 will not fall below 4.5 degi'ees, Fahr. The 

 floor of the cellar is likely to be the coldest 

 part of it. — J. M. Shuck. 



The hives ought to stand not less than a 

 foot from the floor. I have placed them as 

 low as 4 inches, but the lower hives seem 

 to winter with more loss than those placed 

 from 2 to 4 feet high. — C. H. Dibbern. 



If the cellar has no bottom either of 

 cement, wood or anything else, the hives 

 should be placed somewhere from an inch 



to 8 feet, according to conditions, and liow 

 liable the bees are to die with the bee- 

 diarrhea.— Jamks Heddon. 



They should be high enough to allow a 

 circulation of air— say 8 inches or more, 

 according to the size of the cellar and the 

 number of colonies to be put into it. — The 

 Editor. 



YVuotI t«r Fee«lep UotloinM A 



correspondent sends this question for reply 

 in the Bee Journal: 



Will Mr. James Heddon please state what 

 he considers the best kind of wood, and 

 thickness, for the bottoms of his large 

 feeders? 



Mr. Heddon answers the above query as 

 follows : 



Either white wood, bass wood or pine will 

 do very well for the bottoms of my feeders. 

 Almost any wood — the lighter the better — 

 will work all right for the following rea- 

 sons: 



1. We thoroughly paint the feeder inside 

 and out, bottom and all — not the divisions, 

 but simply the case proper, or box, before 

 the divisions are put in, which, of course, 

 will include the bottom-board. 



2. A very important feature, is that the 

 bottom-board comes within the sides and end 

 pieces, and the whole is made of just such 

 a size that if any leaking should take place, 

 in or between the bottom and the sides and 

 end pieces, it could not leak anywhere 

 except inside the hive- 



Agones of Honey. — There is some- 

 thing new popping up every now and then 

 in the honey market reports. Some few 

 years ago these report-makers insisted on 

 reporting strained-honey as in the market, 

 when there was not a pound of strained 

 honey to be found in the California market. 

 With the market-reporter all honey not in 

 the comb was strained honey, and the 

 extractor and extracted honey was a fiction 

 fabricated by the bee-keeper. Next came 

 the " warranted, guaranteed strictly pure," 

 orange-blossom honey. The market re- 

 porter rolls this sweet quotation under and 

 over his commercial tongue with much 

 gusto, and it will doubtless serve him a 

 long time, but it is pure humbug all the 

 same. But to the Los Angeles Times mar- 

 ket reporter — Pasadena edition — belongs 

 the discovery of "Honey, 1-pound cones, 

 1.5 cents; 2-pouud cones, 30 and 3.0 cents." 

 Happy Pasadena ! As far as we know that 

 city has the pure and only original honey 

 cones in the world. What next ! — Rural 

 Callfornian. 



CouTention Notices. 



8^~ The next meetiDg of the Ciirolinfl Bee Keep- 

 ers' Association will be held in Cliarlotte, N. C, ou 

 Thursday, July 17, 1890. N. P. Lyles, >cc. 



B^" The spring meeting of the Northern Illinois 

 Bee-Keepers' Association, will meet at the residence 

 of D. A. Fuller, in Cherry Valley. Ills., on May ::Ottl, 

 189*). D. A. Fuller. Sec. 



B^" The next regular meeting of the Southwes- 

 tern Wisconsin Bcc-Keepers' Association will be 

 held at Boscobel, Wis., on Thursday, May 1.1H90. 

 at 10 a.m. BENJ. K. KICE. Sec. 



ZW The l'2th annual session of the Texas State 

 Bee-Keepers' Association, will be held at Green- 

 ville, Hunt Co., Texas, on May 7 and -^. ishii. All in- 

 terested are inyited. J. N. Hunter. Sec. 



tWThe spring meeting of the Capital Bee-Keepers' 

 Association, will be held in the Supervisor's Room 

 of the Court House at Springfield, Ills., at 10 a.m., 

 on May 7. lS9o. The following subjects will be dis- 

 cussed: "Production and Care of Comb Honey," by 

 Jas. A. Stone: "Prevention of After-Swanns." by A. 

 I^ewis: and "Creating a Home M;irket.'' by G. F. 

 Robbins. All interested are cordially inyited to 

 attend. C B. yocosi. Sec. 



